tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57786490717509113432024-03-06T00:23:09.558+00:00Christina's Anatomy Subjective views on fashion, contemporary craft and global cultureChristina Laihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07412572842379661150noreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-64046688776005805752016-02-09T23:35:00.000+00:002016-02-10T23:47:38.804+00:00Changing Minds at Southbank: Mental Health Arts Festival<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sp2hbmJvIcQ/VrpvuRUQgoI/AAAAAAAAFF0/tgaiMypsmWg/s1600/IMG_20160207_134853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sp2hbmJvIcQ/VrpvuRUQgoI/AAAAAAAAFF0/tgaiMypsmWg/s640/IMG_20160207_134853.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RCA Design Interaction student Jinhee Park rearranging her 'Solitude' installation</td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>After a very, very, very long hiatus from blogging, I haven't felt this eager to review an event as I did with<a href="http://www.southbankcentre.co.uk/whatson/festivals-series/changing-minds"> 'Changing Minds'</a>, Southbank Centre's first ever mental health themed arts festival, held last weekend.</i></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the context: I'm passionate about and have been semi-involved in the 'Mental Health x Arts' space, ever since I'd volunteered as a ceramics technician for a <a href="http://www.bromley.gov.uk/directory_record/1210165/community_options_credo_-_creative_arts_centre/category/53/art">mental health rehab project</a> - of which I was once an attendee.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Was this a watershed moment in changing public perceptions towards mental health (or MH for brevity's sake)? Perhaps I have been conditioned by self-stigmatisation for too long, but I believe there exists an acceptable belief of which people with mental health problems are not 'normal' and should be locked up in order to not become a 'burden' on society. Not necessarily because those in power are inherently nasty, but due to the lack of empathy and not knowing or understanding how they can help.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">In popular culture and the media, we are rarely short of sensational headlines on the relationship between genius, creativity and madness - The talented, lonely voice-hearing artist who cut off his ear and drank himself to death. The promising, rich but disturbed actor addicted to drugs and prostitutes. The young, depressed penniless writer who committed suicide before her works became famous. I am skeptical towards such grossly oversimplified 'tortured artistic' stereotypes, which appear to glamourise and make light of the debilitating reality of mental illness. But I do admit there is something inherently cathartic about deploying creativity to express the more socially taboo, inexplicable aspects of it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Our CM (short for 'Changing Minds') journey began with a back-to-back Saturday of curious talks, in the company of two good friends. "I wonder what the demographic for an event like this is?", one of them asked me. <i>What a brilliant question indeed! Yes, who are these people who are willing to pay money for a festival dedicated to lunacy? </i>This kind of thing would be inconceivable in Hong Kong, where I was raised, and in most conservative Asian cultures where mental illness is heavily stigmatised and rarely discussed in mainstream media - let alone celebrated in such a liberal manner. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5Qtk4Y8qzI/VrpylYY2VVI/AAAAAAAAFGI/EZrzA3pIXuA/s1600/IMG_20160206_143126712_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5Qtk4Y8qzI/VrpylYY2VVI/AAAAAAAAFGI/EZrzA3pIXuA/s640/IMG_20160206_143126712_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wise words by Lotje Sodderland</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The first 'rock-and-a-hard-place' choice for us was deciding which simultaneous talks to attend. Whether it was designed intentionally or not to relieve of triggering one's OCD, eliminating the option of 'hedging bets' turned out to be a blessing, because it meant by default no two experiences were the same. We'd created our unique, personalised CM journey. This felt like a perfect metaphor for describing the very nature of having a mental health problem. It is so common (the "1-in-4" statistic was heard loud and clear throughout the event), yet so subjective. What we are capable of communicating, using art or otherwise, is limited to only what we are consciously aware of at that given moment. If there's anything I've learned, it's that despite advances in science (as revealed in the fascinating 'What's in Your Head' latest </span><span style="font-size: large;">neuroscience findings </span><span style="font-size: large;">panel), there is so much we don't understand about our brains. It's crucial for us to acknowledge this; to not give up on trying to learn about, rather than judge others, as Southbank's Artistic Director <a href="http://judekellysbc/">Jude Kelly</a> reminded us.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, back to business, the opening talk was provided by heads of the country's most well-respected MH charities and campaigns - <a href="http://www.mind.org.uk/">Mind</a>, <a href="https://www.rethink.org/">Rethink Mental Illness</a> and <a href="http://www.time-to-change.org.uk/">Time to Change</a>. I was impressed by how frank the speakers were on sharing their personal experiences of MH, but more intrigued to learn </span><span style="font-size: large;">how the language used to describe MH had evolved historically, as explained by </span><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://twitter.com/paulfarmermind">Paul Farmer</a> (Mind's CEO). From the Victorian twisty road origins to the saying </span><a href="http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-rou2.htm" style="font-size: x-large;">"round the bend"</a><span style="font-size: large;">, to Mind having started out as a merger of associations advocating 'social hygiene' practices on the deemed 'mentally deficient' after the Second World War. Thankfully we've come a long way since such terminology. MH is the new rock'n roll... or food.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Is it too optimistic to imagine a world where having and talking about it is normalised? During the discussion 'Misunderstanding Mental Illness', artist and Mind ambassador <a href="https://twitter.com/stuartsemple">Stuart Semple</a> said, "20 years ago we'd all be smoking here in this room. 10 years ago we'd be debating about racism or sexism. 40 years ago homosexuality was illegal in America. Now we have same-sex marriages. It shows change can happen."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">"But how can we encourage someone who finds it hard to talk, to talk about it?" asked my friend. I was unexpectedly inspired by the thoughtful questions from the audience, who were as engaging as the some of the speakers themselves. These included MH sufferers, carers, friends, family of those affected and professionals from charity workers, neuroscience students to psychologists and psychiatrists. One woman, a Newham resident raised the issue of needing more physical as well as virtual safe spaces to talk about MH, as disability hate crime is a problem in her catchment area. That hit home in remembering it's not just those who can afford access to a computer and internet who are vulnerable to abuse, discrimination and lack support. One doctor brought up the importance of education from a young age; arguing MH should a critical part of the national curriculum. "We are all taught how to look after our physical health from an early age but not about our mental health", Semple added.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Idea from the 'Room for Alternative' open workshop and exhibition, conceived by RCA students Ted Hunt and Peter Hudson</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As the weekend of talks and creative experiments progressed, I realised I shared many thoughts and feelings of living with mental illness with other people. I left mentally equipped with positive messages I could use to fight against self stigma and most importantly, make it easier to start a discussion on MH - which is often the beginning of longstanding change. Here are a couple that struck a chord. </span></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;"><br />"Love and care can make a difference. We need to start talking about it as a community." </span></i></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://twitter.com/attikac">Attika Choudhary</a>, journalist and creator of short film <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-Hx5hyaN24">'Depression in the South Asian Community: The Hidden Illness'</a></span></blockquote>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">"Be experts in vulnerability." </span></i></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://twitter.com/TheMinilot">Lotje Sodderland</a>, filmmaker of Netflix documentary <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSfpA3AEKmY">'My Beautiful Broken Brain'</a>, </span></blockquote>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">"Don't do anything drastic. Not everyone deserves to hear your innermost thoughts." </span></i></b></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://twitter.com/robdelaney">Rob Delaney</a>, comedian and writer of TV series <a href="http://www.channel4.com/programmes/catastrophe">'Catastrophe' </a></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You're welcome.</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-61124642863844477672015-06-14T14:58:00.001+01:002015-06-15T12:07:01.506+01:00Turning Japanese: Innovation<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K8viiBimPJI/VX1_XntXhLI/AAAAAAAADuE/BoFL6lHw2jo/s1600/shinjuku_godzilla.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K8viiBimPJI/VX1_XntXhLI/AAAAAAAADuE/BoFL6lHw2jo/s640/shinjuku_godzilla.jpg" width="525" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Godzilla shares a coke with Shinjuku</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">When we think of Japanese innovation, what sort of images come to mind? </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Electronics? Sushi? Hello Kitty?<a name='more'></a></span></i></span></h2>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to our guide, 46 new inventions are patented everyday in Japan. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the eyes of the rest of the world, Japan has been somewhat of a mecca for innovation - original, cutting edge technologies, laser-targeted precision and creative (sometimes zany) ideas.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"Facing increasing competition for China and South Korea, Japan </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">now focuses primarily on high-tech and precision goods, such as </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_instrument" style="line-height: 1.83272724151612; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0b0080; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">optical instruments</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_vehicle" style="line-height: 1.83272724151612; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0b0080; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">hybrid vehicles</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, and</span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robotics" style="line-height: 1.83272724151612; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0b0080; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">robotics</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Besides the </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kant%C5%8D_region" style="line-height: 1.83272724151612; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0b0080; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kantō region</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">the </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kansai_region" style="line-height: 1.83272724151612; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0b0080; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kansai region</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> is one of the leading industrial clusters and manufacturing centers for the Japanese economy."*</span></span></i></blockquote>
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to test the latest artificial intelligence, eye-tracking advertising and headline-grabbing robot assistants as I'd originally planned before this trip.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.38; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Instead, I </span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">discovered a different, more subtle form of Japanese innovation. One that has always existed, is accessible to the masses and is </span><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">inherently</span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> fascinating.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">'Japanification' Evolution</span></h3>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px;">Where does Japanese creativity come from? Contrary to what you might imagine, it breeds from a lack of, rather than an abundance of living space or resources. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> C</span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">reativity is a result of constraint. </span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">"About 73 percent of Japan is forested, mountainous, and unsuitable for </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agriculture,_forestry,_and_fishing_in_Japan" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px; text-decoration: none;" title="Agriculture, forestry, and fishing in Japan">agricultural</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">, </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manufacturing_in_Japan" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px; text-decoration: none;" title="Manufacturing in Japan">industrial</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">, or </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Housing_in_Japan" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px; text-decoration: none;" title="Housing in Japan">residential</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"> use."*</span></span></i></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">The proneness to natural disaster and </span><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">unstable supply of </span><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">energy resources means foreign imports and </span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">making the best use of what's available locally is essential. For instance, wind-power plants, electric cars are growing markets, whereas large urban redevelopments are out.</span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">I was surprised to learn that many inventions and technologies we consider stereotypically Japanese were historically originally imported from nearby countries like China </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">and 'turned Japanese' </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">through design evolution. </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">This may </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">involve tweaking features and modifying ingredients</span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 18.3999996185303px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">to suit the </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 18.3999996185303px; white-space: pre-wrap;">nutritional</span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> needs or preferences of the local population.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">It's as much about </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">philosophy and tailoring as it is about process. </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Japanese are experts in taking existing prototypes rather than from scratch and making them more useful, beautiful and precise. </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">This <b><i>innovation details/'Japanification improvement'</i></b> is present in almost everything if you look closely enough. From t</span><span style="line-height: 22.0799999237061px; white-space: pre-wrap;">he shaped curves of Chinese chopsticks' tips that were modified for better grip, the lowered sugar content in standard Coca-Cola to its </span><span style="line-height: 22.0799999237061px; white-space: pre-wrap;">lighter, daintier, fusion interpretations of European cakes, American confectionery, dim-sum and French patisserie.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watermelon slice ice lolly with chocolate 'seeds'. Just one of the many unusual ice cream flavours from Japan.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An internet cafe of dreams in Dontonbori, Osaka</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-URWhLbNaqJE/VX2CMIS42DI/AAAAAAAADuw/KAwPMBPahpE/s1600/calpis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-URWhLbNaqJE/VX2CMIS42DI/AAAAAAAADuw/KAwPMBPahpE/s640/calpis.jpg" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">'Calpis' is a Japanese invention. It</span> tastes like Yakult- you can also buy alcoholic versions and diluted 'Calpis water' </td></tr>
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Nature's Spring Cleaners</b></span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tap water is generally safe for consumption. But for small '</span><i style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">satoyama</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">' communities that lie between arable land and mountains, the water supply comes from nearby lake streams. Local villagers have maintained an extraordinary water management system unlike any other.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 22.0799999237061px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">This culture is known as the Riverside Method or <a href="http://en.biwako-visitors.jp/reports/harie/"><i>'Kabata',</i></a> where giant carp<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT-ETrC5u0k"> 'Koi' are employed as trusty </a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT-ETrC5u0k">kitchen helpers</a>, keeping the spring water clean and safe to drink. Carp are hardy </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">groundfeeders - so there's no detergent, no waste, no chemical pollution. Just a naturally sanitised </span><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">supply</span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> of clean water which is used for </span><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">everything</span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> in homes from preparing food, washing </span><span style="line-height: 20.2399997711182px; white-space: pre-wrap;">dishes</span><span style="line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> to laundry.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Japanese wildlife seem to have developed their own innovative methods for survival too. For example, the celebrity <i>onsen</i> (hot water spring) bathing-macaques, aka </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; text-align: center; white-space: pre-wrap;">snow monkeys in Honshu are super-saavy and pick up their treats underwater in their individual styles. Catch them in action while you can in the BBC's recent brilliant documentary 'Japan: Earth's Enchanted Islands' <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p02n9v33/japan-earths-enchanted-islands-1-honshu">here</a>.</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Toilet Inventions</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">I draw the line at bathrooms when it comes to sharing holiday snaps on social media. However, it's impossible not to talk about </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toilets_in_Japan" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Japan's toilet culture</a><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">. There's even a National Toilet Day and children are taught to do their business neatly to respect 'lavatory gods'. Heated seats, bum-cleaning bidet-style toilets are installed in 72% of domestic households. Personal hygiene is non-negotiable - words that mean 'clean' in Japanese are frequently used to describe beauty.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 18.3999996185303px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sci-fi slick and luxury toilets that come with carpeted reading rooms and artworks are commonplace at road rest areas - you <i>will </i>be blown away. The most memorable experience I've had was with the 'smart toilet' cubicles - where I was greeted by automatic doors, seats and buttons that produce 'flushing' </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">noises to "reduce one's </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 18.3999996185303px; white-space: pre-wrap;">embarrassment".</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P6aMsHQooGs/VX1_83iIZlI/AAAAAAAADuM/6jNvfAFIjJQ/s1600/japan_toilet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P6aMsHQooGs/VX1_83iIZlI/AAAAAAAADuM/6jNvfAFIjJQ/s640/japan_toilet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This motorside rest stop toilet has a digital display system to help you find the nearest vacancy</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YdRP4jQOGjE/VX1_9G7ZPTI/AAAAAAAADuY/gMsHuAVhvSw/s1600/ocean_toilet_kids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YdRP4jQOGjE/VX1_9G7ZPTI/AAAAAAAADuY/gMsHuAVhvSw/s640/ocean_toilet_kids.jpg" width="492" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An underwater themed toilet. Joined with spacious powdering and changing rooms that feature smart mirrors and lighting</td></tr>
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Transforming Spaces</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38;">A microtrend I'd noticed was how the living/working spaces, or lack thereof in urban Japan is driving innovation. In the city financial district of Nihombashi, Tokyo's equivalent of London's Canary Wharf, entrepreneurial startup co-working spaces are popping up on the street-level. Think random bonsais, garden plots and swings in offices. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 20.0727272033691px;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20.0727272033691px;">Another example is </span></span><span style="line-height: 20.0727272033691px;">accommodation - you've probably heard about <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsule_hotel">Capsule hotels</a>, which were developed for city-dwellers who were too drunk to go home to their wives safely. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20.0727272033691px;">My </span></span><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g1066444-d1114758-Reviews-Tokyu_Stay_Nihonbashi-Chuo_Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 20.0727272033691px;">Tokyu Stay</a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20.0727272033691px;"> hotel was compact but absolutely perfect - complete with a washer, cooker, even a selection of kitchen knives neatly tucked inside hidden compartments. And to my surprise, consisting of just a few sofas, desks and a complimentary </span></span><span style="line-height: 20.0727272033691px;">cappuccino</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20.0727272033691px;"> maker, </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38;">my hotel's tiny lobby transformed into a buffet breakfast hall from the hours of 7am-9am. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 1.38;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<i><b>So there you have it - a few things that constitute as unconventional originals in Japan. Innovation is part of everyday life. Some ideas will last and make an impact, some are gimmicks that will inevitably flop or evolve in time. But a<span style="line-height: 1.38;">s an outsider and as a tourist, it is fascinating to witness. </span></b></i><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i><b><br /></b></i></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i><b>There's no shortage of crazy trends that make no sense whatsoever, but I've enjoyed trying to understand the differences. 'Quirks' should always be considered in open-minded context whether you're holidaying or doing business in another country as a sign of mutual respect.</b></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>*Source: Wikipedia</i></span></span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-72897766942550153152015-06-13T15:00:00.000+01:002015-06-26T21:54:40.639+01:00Turning Japanese: 7 Golden Rules of Social Etiquette<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaDScgBITGU/VXt2wbFnPxI/AAAAAAAADsk/uu2SnRv8a-k/s1600/Fuji%2BGotemba%2BHeiwa%2BKoen%2B%2528Peace%2BPark%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaDScgBITGU/VXt2wbFnPxI/AAAAAAAADsk/uu2SnRv8a-k/s1600/Fuji%2BGotemba%2BHeiwa%2BKoen%2B%2528Peace%2BPark%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A prayer memorial at Gotemba Heiwa Koen (Peace Park), enroute to Mt Fuji. Also home to dog statues donated by Buddhist cities over Asia.</td></tr>
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<h2>
<i><br /></i></h2>
<h2>
<i>It'd be rude not to explain Japan's lesser-known, mind-boggling rules of social engagement.</i></h2>
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<h3>
Turning Japanese: Etiquette</h3>
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Life in Japan is built on a historical foundation of etiquette and social conformity. It's impossible to not be impressed by the friendliness, helpfulness and politeness. It's not just their Ps, Qs and remarkable 90 degree bowing abilities either. The values of ensuring safety, honesty, community, humility, respect and responsibility are evident not simply in the behaviours and actions of the people, but in their products and built environment.<br />
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It's worth doing a bit of research on regional customs before your visit. It's not an exhaustive list, but as a guest in a foreign country, you'll save yourself the embarrassment, feel infinitely more immersed and appreciated for making the effort.<br />
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<h3>
<b>1. Honesty is often the only policy</b></h3>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Money does not necessarily 'rule' all in Japan. Tipping is not normally practiced. In fact, it's considered an insult to tip your taxi driver because it implies he didn't do a good enough job. On one memorable occasion I was chased down a station by a panicked sushi restaurant hostess who thought I'd left my purse on my seat.</span><br />
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<br />
<h3>
<b>2. And when <i>not</i> to tell the truth...</b></h3>
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Most tourists are familiar with the phrase "<i><b>Oishi</b></i>" (delicious) and that it's polite to audibly let the restaurant owner/chefs hear your appreciation of their cooking. But for locals, "oishi" is what you exclaim regardless of what you're served tastes like. <i>"Japanese people tend to say the negative things indirectly. Because they try not to hurt the feeling of others, and to avoid confrontational situations."*</i><br />
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<h3>
<b>3. Exact match</b></h3>
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Quality assurance, food safety and accurate labelling are taken very seriously in Japan. It's common to see every ingredient and calorie declared on menus and outdoor signage. That includes the irresistible matcha ice-cream stalls you'll find everywhere.<br />
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Growing 'perfect produce' is a national obsession. In grocery marts you'll find two or more varieties of fruit and veg that look identical but cost differently - as prices are based on their specific level of nutrients and sweetness. "As with anything made in Japan quality standards are high, so if you want the very best you have to pay for it," said Fu-san, our wise counsel during the trip.<br />
<h3>
<br /><b>4. The 'preciousness' of children</b></h3>
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The national societal concern to protect young ones can seem a bit extreme for visitors. For starters there are some ridiculously <a href="http://en.rocketnews24.com/2013/11/08/some-japanese-school-regulations-dont-make-any-sense/">weird school regulations.</a> Most primaries require students to wear Bob the Builder-esque 'pedestrian helmets' whilst walking to school. Why? To reduce the risk of head injury, even though evidence has shown they make little difference. However, in context of its ever-dropping birth rate it's a somewhat understandable measure.<br />
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Ironically however, schoolchildren travel to school unaccompanied. As for adults, speed jaywalking is widespread - Fu-san describes Tokyoite jaywalking as 'legendary'.<br />
<h3>
<b><br /></b><b>5. Knowing the difference between left and right</b></h3>
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In the UK, you're expected to stand on the right side of the escalator as a sign of courtesy. For most of Japan however, people stand on the left. Confusingly, in the Kansai region (where Osaka is located), people stand on the right. A fascinating explanation for this bit of transport etiquette, which also applies to drivers can be found <a href="http://www.quora.com/Why-do-the-Japanese-drive-on-the-left-hand-side-of-the-road/answer/Makiko-Itoh-1">here</a>. Hint: it's to do with samurais.<br />
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<h3>
<b>6. The Green Party</b></h3>
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As natural energy resources are limited, society makes a point on everyone doing their bit for conserving the environment. The streets and parks are spotless. General waste bins are generally super-hard to find, unlike recycling bins. Every drinks vending machine is accompanied by a unit for plastic, metal and glass. "If you live here and consistently don't do your household recycling correctly, you are likely to be shunned by your local community." said Fu-san.<br />
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<h3>
<b>7. Wildlife and folklore </b></h3>
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Due to the active tectonic plates its 6000+ islands lie on, Japan's urban spaces are densely over-populated. Throughout history nature and humans have always had a curiously intimate and sometimes challenging relationship, which is also reflected in its culture.<br />
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For example, because they can only leap forwards, frogs are considered a good luck mascot that bring progress - you'll often spot decorative stone frogs in temples, urban parks, even on chopsticks. At the entrances of eateries and bars keep an eye out for a cheeky anthropomorphic creature which looks like the mole from 'The Wind in the Willows'. This is <b><i>'tanuki'</i>,</b> the centuries old cult-famous <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9RbJEI_rYI">Japanese raccoon dog</a>/flying squirrel. <i>"The legendary tanuki is reputed to be mischievous and jolly, a master of disguise and shapeshifting, but somewhat gullible and absentminded"**.</i> And in the city of Nara, the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g298198-d319876-Reviews-Todaiji_Temple-Nara_Nara_Prefecture_Kinki.html">Tōdaiji</a>, temple welcomes deer as well as humans guests because the former are supposed to be sacred.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NtBrPi6peJQ/VXwUVBo2TKI/AAAAAAAADs4/q0kdfI6aq7M/s1600/tanuki.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="359" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NtBrPi6peJQ/VXwUVBo2TKI/AAAAAAAADs4/q0kdfI6aq7M/s640/tanuki.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making a fancy entrance - a family of Tanunki </td></tr>
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<br />
<h4>
<i>Do you know any traditional or modern rules of Japanese etiquette? I'd love to hear from you!</i></h4>
<br />
<b>Up Next: <i>Innovation</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">*Sources: <a href="http://japanese-lesson.com/conversation/basic_japanese/basic08.html">JapaneseLesson</a>, </span></i><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">**Wikipedia</span></i>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-72978096188328720552015-06-08T11:00:00.000+01:002015-06-26T21:52:54.016+01:00Turning Japanese: Work and Economy<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u19dqgB8rTk/VXTvqP7I5XI/AAAAAAAADLE/4x0--iOYqQ8/s1600/tokyo_skyline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u19dqgB8rTk/VXTvqP7I5XI/AAAAAAAADLE/4x0--iOYqQ8/s1600/tokyo_skyline.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Panoramic city skyline from Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building</span></td></tr>
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<h2 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>In this chapter we'll take a look at the economy, job hunting like a Tokyoite and how to survive working in Japan.</i></span></h2>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Chapter Three: Work and Economy</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">I know little about economics. </span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.38; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Having said that, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">the fact that the price of a Pokka canned iced coffee had not changed in 20 years </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>+ </b>the </span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">unbelievably</span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> reasonable cost of eating out well </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>+</b> the number of mainly Asian tourists towing their ridiculous shopping hauls </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>=</b> according to my math are telltale signs of a recession. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">As the world's largest creditor nation (massive problems with public debt started in the 1990s), Japan's economy is shrinking at an alarming rate. No surprise large amounts of tourists are arriving to take advantage of the weak yen - to bulk-buy top-quality, trustworthy 'Made in Japan' products (typically electronics like rice cookers) at a very reasonable price.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Most ladies know Shiseido is somewhat of a gold standard for luxury skincare and makeup. However in Japan, it's as plain Jane as Maybelline. So don't get too excited the first time you find Shiseido toiletries in your average hotel room (yes that was me - the hillbilly washing my face and taking one too many showers). Typical Shiseido 'brand shoppers' in Japan are tourists - to locals it's known for its high-end department stores, alongside other iconic chains like Mitsukoshi (until its closure in 2013, the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Piccadilly branch </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">served London's Japanese community for 34 years).</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="line-height: 20.7000007629395px;">The parallel goods trading industry thrives on t</span>he feverish overseas demand for the finest Japanese skincare </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;">(particularly from nearby Asian countries) </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- since niche products or regional editions are only available for a limited time. Nevertheless, "Japan saves the best stuff for itself - its domestic markets are some of the least open to exports or foreign investment." said </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fu-san, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">our tour guide.</span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WskvPzzDLEM/VXTxD2IM8fI/AAAAAAAADLQ/yMJ4LsQX8Rg/s1600/tokyo_skytree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WskvPzzDLEM/VXTxD2IM8fI/AAAAAAAADLQ/yMJ4LsQX8Rg/s1600/tokyo_skytree.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view across Tokyo Skytree, Japan's tallest structure. (Right) The golden gourd topped Asahi Beer Hall</td></tr>
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<b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Job hunting</b><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Every April Tokyo's prime </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">job hunting season<i> </i></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>'Shukatsu'</i> kicks off. Students are expected to plan their applications a year in advance. For high school or university graduates in their</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> third or fourth academic year</span><span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 1.38;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">, finding the job is a notoriously stressful and laborious process - they'll go through r</span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">ounds of applications and interviews during the year.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simultaneous_recruiting_of_new_graduates">新卒一括採用 'Shinsotsu-Ikkatsu-Saiyō</a>' is a controversial corporate employment practice which is unique in Japan. It literally means 'simultaneous mass recruitment of graduates'. Unfortunately in some 'dark companies' their offer in employment is followed by</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i> "weeding out of weak ones through horrible work conditions and stress."*</i></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Entry-level jobs for graduates are scarce - it is extremely difficult for them to find a job at any other time of the year. For those w</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ho are initially unsuccessful, many choose to extend their studies (thus preserving the desirable 'pre-graduate' status) rather than joining the workforce. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Switching jobs is heavily frowned upon. You only get one shot as a prime job hunting candidate or fresh graduate. "Research the company background well and choose carefully. If you change more than three times you are unlikely to ever find work later in life," Fu-san told me as-a-matter-of-factly. In return for housing benefits, pensions and job security, you are expected to offer 'lifelong loyalty' to the company and comply with Japanese management culture. This includes unpaid overtime, mandatory after-hours drinking parties ('</span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nomikai" style="line-height: 1.38; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #0b0080; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>nomikai</i></span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">')</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, standardised dress code, systematically working your way up and the pressure to not to take up your full quota of holidays/sick leave. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fascinatingly,</span><i style="line-height: 1.38;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> "l</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">eadership is not based on assertiveness or quick decision making but on the ability to create consensus, taking into account the needs of subordinates"**</span></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. The key to career success is to be seen as maintaining team harmony (known as <i>'wa'</i>), sharing credit for group accomplishments rather than celebrating individualism. Young children are taught the importance of team-building exercises and it's not uncommon to spot the odd early morning fitness assembly/fire drill/company song singalong outdoors, as I did peering over my Nihombashi (Tokyo's financial district) hotel balcony.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Japan's high suicide rate is a sad, sobering reminder of its sometimes punishing work ethic. The stress placed on students' to land that critical first (and possibly last) job, the mandatory extended unpaid work hours (this is also due to company downsizing and a diminishing,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> ageing workforce - see my post on Japan's '<a href="http://christinas-anatomy.blogspot.co.uk/2015/06/turning-japanese-ageing-sex-and-fantasy.html">Ageing Epidemic'</a>) There's even a term coined for death by overwork - <i>'</i></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Karōshi'.</i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UXvFm0M9I6E/VXTymsdfw8I/AAAAAAAADLc/2aGpVUVywdY/s1600/dotonbori.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UXvFm0M9I6E/VXTymsdfw8I/AAAAAAAADLc/2aGpVUVywdY/s640/dotonbori.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dontonbori canal, Osaka</td></tr>
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<b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Open All Hours</b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There's no question about Japan's 24/7 culture. In major cities many food and entertainment establishments are open 36</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5 days a year. That's not including the convenience stores - Lawson, 7-11, Family Mart who will be your best friends if can't read local menus. Plus the ubiquitous vending machines selling canned coffee (my favourite Japanese innovation) will undeniably keep you energised throughout the night.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">But let's say you have a job working here. How do you let off steam after your 12 hour shift? Relax, a</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">fter-work socialising with colleagues or clients in casual bars (known as <i>'<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Izakaya">izakayas'</a></i> - literally 'roofs with alcohol') is the norm. At<a href="http://www.gojapango.com/travel/osaka_dotonbori.htm"> </a></span><a href="http://www.gojapango.com/travel/osaka_dotonbori.htm"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dōtonbori</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, </span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Osaka's bursting foodie/nightlife district, besides amazingly affordable and delicious food - try the street stalls selling grilled octopus balls, you can go for all-you-can-drink (in one hour) for 1900 yen (that's less than £10). I'm not advocating that you should overdo it, obviously. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">*S</span><span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">ource: 'How to jobhunt like a Tokyoite', Grace Buchele Mineta, Time Out Tokyo 2015 Summer Issue</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">**Source: Wikipedia</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Up Next: <i>Etiquette</i></b></span></h3>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-52280467398624444362015-06-07T11:00:00.000+01:002015-06-26T21:50:32.723+01:00Turning Japanese: Ageing, Sex and Fantasy<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b8w8zrOUt4w/VXMkIVh0LGI/AAAAAAAACmY/ukscTx3Veck/s1600/excited_banana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b8w8zrOUt4w/VXMkIVh0LGI/AAAAAAAACmY/ukscTx3Veck/s1600/excited_banana.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of 'Excited Banana' prizes up for grabs at a Shinjuku arcade game</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>In this post I'll be exploring Japan's ever-jaw-droppingly diverse world of sexual fetishism, the perks of being over 60 and the country's worrying 'Sexless Generation'. </i></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Trying hard not to be judgmental, I'd heard about Japan's love-doll industry, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parasite_single">'parasite singles'</a> and '<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbivore_men">herbivore men</a>' long before I'd got here. I found it incredible how the Japanese were so adept at creating all sorts of innovations to satisfy one's particular sexual needs that the real thing became superfluous and boring in comparison. Yet <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-30653825">Japan's low fertility problem</a> is a serious economic and social issue not to be laughed at. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">"In Japan life begins after 60", my guide Fu-san told me. Thanks to a diet rich in fish Omega-3s and seaweed nutrients the Japanese are famous for their high average 80+ life-expectancies. It's encouraging to see how society embraces the golden oldies - who are often <a href="http://www.aarp.org/health/healthy-living/info-2014/longevity-secrets-from-japan.html">physically fitter, mentally sharper and more socially active than their younger counterparts</a>. For example in Osaka I saw recruitment posters specifically welcoming and praising the virtues of older candidates. From the impressively knowledgeable traffic wardens who helped us navigate Shinjuku to the helpful airport workers and the regular OAP protesters, they honestly seemed to be having a lot more fun. And when they're not keeping busy they're splurging their hard-earned savings on their next vacation.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MQFoMSVlAFU/VXNrL1fveeI/AAAAAAAACnE/RSh3i8yaGT0/s1600/mother_grandmother_japan_elderly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MQFoMSVlAFU/VXNrL1fveeI/AAAAAAAACnE/RSh3i8yaGT0/s640/mother_grandmother_japan_elderly.jpg" width="451" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most common sight in Japan. A pair of older Japanese women in Tsujiki. I love their tops.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spare a thought for the millennials, who in contrast, life consists of long working hours and the responsibility to care for parents in old age - like most of East Asia, the concept of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filial_piety#Ry.C5.ABky.C5.ABan_cultures"> 'filial piety' </a>to elders is widespread. Add in factor of the struggling economy it's hardly surprising that despite government encouragement, many have chosen to delay marriage or not to start families at all. The severe measures conceived to solve its ageing epidemic/plummeting birth rate crisis was shown on a TV news special we watched while we ate a hotel breakfast in Tokyo - chicken curry rice and marbled green tea cake, in case you're wondering.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fhLJYO4_Ao4/VXNolyATpII/AAAAAAAACmw/AZCqBfh4b80/s1600/traditional_japanese_wedding_couple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fhLJYO4_Ao4/VXNolyATpII/AAAAAAAACmw/AZCqBfh4b80/s1600/traditional_japanese_wedding_couple.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Shinto wedding ceremony couple at Meiji Shrine</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">I'd learned about new government supported dating apps - 'Chiato' (for divorced mothers) and a 'marriage app' targeted the city's busy working singles. It does sound a bit aggressive, but when it comes to dating culture, Japanese men and women tend to be very shy and conservative. In spite of this, the faces in the programme were all digitally obscured - I thought this was counterproductive if the whole point of the pitch was to make actively looking for love less of a social taboo.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Confusing indeed, when you think of these initiatives against an abundant supply of straightforward non-human alternatives, exotic paraphernalia and every niche establishment you can imagine. Why have a baby when it's acceptable to take your dog in pram with you or pay for companionship at a pet cafe/hotel?. That's not including the high number of peeping-toms and 'lingerie thieves' - some say this perversion has risen due to the somewhat involuntary national repression of sexual desire.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slvUyKzMEMI/VXNoEg6vtSI/AAAAAAAACmo/RifVerJNaUA/s1600/cat_mask.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slvUyKzMEMI/VXNoEg6vtSI/AAAAAAAACmo/RifVerJNaUA/s1600/cat_mask.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will you?</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">It's not just the millennials who are lacking in intimacy either. 'The Loneliness Epidemic' is widespread among elders - a result of relationships </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">growing apart </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">between with their busy, working children. Sadly it's not uncommon to see old people wandering aimlessly, talking to themselves on the street and halting traffic. On the other hand I was shocked to find out the biggest spenders in Shinjuku's Kabukichō (歌舞伎町) red-light district (now also open during daytime due to the recent influx of tourists) are actually the growing wealthy community of over 60s widows and widowers. These men and women aren't necessarily after sex, but are mostly seeking affection in the form of companionship, for meal or movie dates. "You don't even have to be attractive to work there, just attentive." said Fu-san.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Japanese men and women are so incredibly polite, yet patriarchy and </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">sexism are accepted social realities. Women are expected to take care of their appearance from childhood and the unspoken gender pay gap has always existed. I couldn't help but notice at the Tsukiji market all the cart drivers were men.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">These are just a few phenomenons and contradictions I'd witnessed in Japanese society. I suspect it's not just porn and sexual simulacra that's partially responsible either. Everything 'contemporary' in Japan seems to help one drift further from reality, reinforcing a 'perfect fantasy' world of escapism and imitation. The garish plastic food models outside restaurants, clear varnish painted Mickey Mouse shaped raindrops on umbrellas (</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">over-ornamentation)</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">, every new WTF? fusion flavour, shiny product, themed eatery or cartoon character (</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">twee-fication)</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">, arcade game, pachinko machine to the many random ferris wheels built for "romantic proposals and photo opportunities". Remember it's the adults who spend money on this...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Needless to say, I was left more perplexed and fascinated with Japanese gender values than I ever was to begin with.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6poqHs3sCYU/VXNpUSH8cKI/AAAAAAAACm4/s7mhk0M28zI/s1600/robot_restaurant_japan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6poqHs3sCYU/VXNpUSH8cKI/AAAAAAAACm4/s7mhk0M28zI/s640/robot_restaurant_japan.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robot Restaurant - one of the many themed restaurants in Tokyo. You can rent a costume to make your experience extra memorable.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Recap: <a href="http://christinas-anatomy.blogspot.co.uk/2015/06/turning-japanese-5-twists-on.html">Chapter One: Traditional Culture</a> </i></span></span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">or <a href="http://christinas-anatomy.blogspot.co.uk/2015/06/turning-japanese-innovation-and.html">How I Survived 3 Days without WiFi in a Sylvanian Family Forest</a></i></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-22741862857461852192015-06-06T11:00:00.000+01:002015-06-26T21:48:12.124+01:00Turning Japanese: 5 Twists on Traditional Culture <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SF3jo8OICv0/VXIZ4dTLU6I/AAAAAAAACmE/1vpX5v9N0qk/s1600/Kinkaku-ji_Kyoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SF3jo8OICv0/VXIZ4dTLU6I/AAAAAAAACmE/1vpX5v9N0qk/s1600/Kinkaku-ji_Kyoto.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lais at Kinkaku-ji 'The Temple of The Golden Pavilion', Kyoto.</td></tr>
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<i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Welcome to the first chapter in a series of fascinating cultural observations from a recent holiday in Japan.</i></h2>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="line-height: 20.7000007629395px;">Before I begin I must credit my spirited, mile-a-minute tour guide Fu-san (Ms Fu) for sharing her insider knowledge as a Chinese woman living in Tokyo for the past 10 years.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="line-height: 20.7000007629395px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">These are literally nuggets of disparate facts I picked up along the journey. I tried to group them together as best as I could, so I apologise if they sound a bit haphazard.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If you are Japanese/am living in Japan and disagree with any of the following, please do let me know.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Turning Japanese: 5 Unexpected Twists on </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditional Culture</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Ancient Architecture</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It's impossible to visit Japan without encountering a breathtakingly photogenic temple. Spurred by the introduction of Buddhism by Chinese monks in the 6th century, the mass building of temples were heavily influenced by Chinese Tang and Sui Dynasty styles of architecture. The Japanese adapted and tweaked many, many historical inventions from the China which exist today - I'll cover more on this in a later chapter on innovation details.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Social Status</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Can you guess which groups of men and women enjoy highest social status across generations in Japan? For men, Sumo wrestlers - apparently their heavy paypackets make them the most eligible bachelors in Japan. "Sumo wrestler wives are told to tie their husbands up in bed to avoid being squashed to death before they inherit their fortunes" my guide told me - I couldn't tell if she was joking or not. For women, Geishas are seen as well-respected, multi-talented businesswomen. It is expensive to train as a geisha as it is to be entertained by one. Since the interest in traditional arts is fast declining, so are the number of apprentices. I was slightly disappointed to have left Kyoto (the heart of geisha culture) without having encountered a real geisha.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Bento Boxes</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The ubiquitous Bento box was originally imported from Song Dynasty China, known as </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">便當 ('</span><i><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">biàndāng'</span></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), meaning "convenience". The most lavishly decorated examples, which feature covers or be stacked in presentation are Tang and Ming dynasty inspired, made with luxurious materials such as lacquered wood and aluminum. There are many types of bento boxes, defined by the occasion they are served at and the cuisine that fills them. Homemakers often spend a week in advance planning bento boxes for their husbands and children, varying ingredients according to their nutritional needs. Colourful, creative character bentos </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>('Kyaraben')</i></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> are often the only incentive for kids to eat their school lunches. Although there's plenty of convenience stores and vending machines around, homemakers tend to save their bulk supermarket shop for the weekends. It is undertaken as a family activity, seen as a break from their notorious work ethic.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Wall Whispers</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here's one very good reason not to have an argument in Japan. The construction methods and materials used there mean their walls are literally thin. I can personally testify upon this truth from every hotel I struggled to fall asleep in. To be fair, you'll seldom hear a Japanese person raise their voice, indoors or outdoors.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Thinking Inside The Box?</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 1.38;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Finally a contentious point Fu-san mentioned from her time working in Japan was the traditionally systematic, detail-driven and somewhat predictable mindset of the population as a whole. And how it contrasts to the flexible, entrepreneurial and opportunistic thinking of the Chinese. I'm not convinced of such a generalisation, but it was fascinating nonetheless to hear her point of view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Up Next: <i>Ageing, Sex and Fantasy</i></b></span></h3>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-62641309077061164402015-06-05T17:05:00.000+01:002015-06-26T21:51:44.367+01:00Turning Japanese: Innovation and Idiosyncrasies <div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhbSN9rNtJw/VXHHIa_4xhI/AAAAAAAAClo/Hhh6mLQYHvI/s1600/Bleston_Court_Karuizawa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhbSN9rNtJw/VXHHIa_4xhI/AAAAAAAAClo/Hhh6mLQYHvI/s1600/Bleston_Court_Karuizawa.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bleston Court Hotel, Karuizawa</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>This was not the Japan I'd expected to discover.</i></span></h2>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first thing you'll see in Japan from the moment you get off the plane is that rubbish bins are virtually non-existent. So forget about eating your Mo's Burger outside or finding litter on the streets/public transport - which is refreshingly considerate, let's be honest. At the risk of oversimplifying facts, despite its foodie reputation, just because of this social custom</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">, the svelte figures of the Japanese immediately make logical sense.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first thing you'll hear in Japan will be a greeting , an apology or both that sounds quite nice. Get used to it. Japanese people are so painfully polite it's probably in their DNA. No matter where you go, you will feel slightly inadequate, a scratch rough even. And as a result you will consciously or otherwise find yourself acting on your most ladylike/gentlemanly behaviour - nodding, smiling a lot more and questioning your home country's manners for improvement.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It's been 13 years since my last and this time, apart from a packed 5 day tour, attending a summer wedding in<a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Tourism-g325581-Karuizawa_machi_Kitasaku_gun_Nagano_Prefecture_Chubu-Vacations.html"> Karuizawa</a> was the main agenda. Although I was staying at mountain resort getaway popular with the 35 million urbanites living in Tokyo, I did not prepare for this little thing called no access to WiFi. It took a while for my brain's </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.7000007629395px; white-space: pre-wrap;">fried up nerves</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and itchy fingers to be relieved by other means - the crisp lakewaters passing through stones, the cadence of birds chirping (we're still looking for that evasively over-confident woodpecker) and whistling while we explored forest paths. Even the wooden cabins we slept in made us feel like we were creatures from the Sylvanian Families.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It was admittedly a bit of a backwards shock - I'd psyched myself up to be blown away by the innovative technologies, striking urban redevelopment and cutting-edge trends from the country that gave us the joys of anime, Nintendo RSI and instant noodles. I'd even planned to research a podcast of Japanese inventions to surprise my friends <a href="https://twitter.com/mrtomollerton">Tom</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/AlastairCole">Al</a> at <a href="https://soundcloud.com/TheInnovationRamble">The Innovation Ramble</a>. But I soon realised I was going to be significantly underwhelmed in that aspect.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This was not the Japan I'd expected to discover. This is not the travel piece of Japan I expected to write. This is a recollection of Japanese idiosyncrasies, interesting facts and cultural observations that delighted me no less. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the revelations of imports/exports, the clapping votive tablets and soothing windchimes at <a href="http://www.meijijingu.or.jp/english/">Meiji Shrine</a>...to the cashier assistant at <a href="http://www.karuizawa-psp.jp.e.kd.hp.transer.com/web/plazaguide/en/">Prince Shopping Plaza</a> unabashedly humming to Carly Rae Jepsen's 'I Really Like You' (annoyingly a big hit there). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I hope you'll find a reason to stay tuned on the blog over the next few days! :-)</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-3675501972983376642014-12-22T16:05:00.001+00:002015-06-05T16:33:35.640+01:00Hong Kong Chinese Consumer Tech Report (Advertising, Retail & Leisure)<h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">QR codes, touch screens to the rise of the ‘low head clan’ - here's the latest on how technology is embedded into the everyday lives of Chinese consumers in Hong Kong.<a name='more'></a></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ignoring the risk of sounding melodramatic, in Hong Kong, life seems to flash by - a lot changes in a week, let alone 2 years it’d been since my last visit. The ever-bustling, overcrowded octopus-ruled city I'd spent 13 fond years growing up in.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As expected, digital technology powers it’s beating heart, and is now rapidly enhancing ‘traditional’ service verticals and 360 aspects of life (or is it the other way round?) in fascinating, ‘why-hasn’t-this-been-done-before’ ways.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The normalisation of perpetual food-Instagramming, selfies, app installing, video and web checking is revolutionising Chinese society and culture. I witnessed first hand the seemingly ageless limit of mobile addicts a.k.a <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/china/11095439/Chinese-city-paints-street-lane-for-mobile-phone-users.html">‘Dītóu zú’, ‘低頭族’</a>which literally translates to ‘low head clan’ in Chinese.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here’s an insights summary of the macro tech trends I observed in the advertising, retail and leisure sector during my recent visit in November. I’ll also explain how these have been shaped by unique Hong Kong and Chinese consumer behaviours. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">QR codes</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Less prominent in the US and UK, the square-dot data barcodes originally from Japan are virtually omnipresent in Hong Kong (almost everyone has a QR code reader downloaded on their Smartphone). QR code usages are seemingly endless*, from simply directing customers to your URL, to sending them to app store or rewarding them with an exclusive discount or perk (colloquially known as ‘Jetso’ ‘著數’). QR codes are particularly loved by mainland Chinese tourists who, powered by the appreciated RMB, have been flocking to Hong Kong as a great value premier shopping destination since the mid-noughties.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Touchscreens</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Again, tap multi-screen environments are propping up seemingly everywhere. I was most impressed at how shopping malls had noticeably eschewed print brochures in favour of much slicker, time-saving directions and personalised visitor services offered by touch screens.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Comprehensive attention to detail (within context)</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Multi-purpose devices and functionalities within apps are popular here, but if you want fickle Chinese consumers to become loyal to your product, or become a long term commercial success, you need to anticipate the specific questions, stipulations and improvements they’ll naturally think next when using your service. Offer the widest, best range possible but only if they're relevant, targeted, time-saving and useful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An example of this is the proliferation of LED video streaming of fashion catwalk footage in/outside malls and stores and the role they play in customer cycles- tempting busy customers walking past to visualise wearing the product in motion, without trying it on themselves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another example are the ladies' restrooms in <a href="http://hp.leegardens.com.hk/">Hysan Place</a> (Causeway Bay’s newest major shopping mall), which provide complimentary smart mirrors that reflect and mimic the effects of natural light. They are designed to help make flattering makeup application easier (perfect for selfie preparations) as well as cleverly sending customers subliminal messages to pay a visit to their beauty stores.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thinking beyond retail and travel</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remember in Hong Kong no industry is considered too traditional, sacred or niche for a tech makeover to better serve customers and provide more engaging ways of sharing content/services. The retail, dining, hotel, travel and entertainment sectors have been the key players, but the market is becoming increasingly fragmented. Religious, education and recruitment marketing, leisure park information signs, exhibition displays to old school print magazines are all emblazoned indoors or out with QR codes these days.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Highly personalised online to offline service for customers anywhere</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Probably one of the most telling trends I saw in action was the seamless integration of human and tech customer service within online-to-offline retail interfaces. An example would be <a href="http://www.harbourcity.com.hk/tw/">Harbour City’s</a> (Tsim Sha Tsui) mall guide, where besides giving you directions to your nearest Burberry store, you can summon live video calls with an actual visitor assistant, a feature particularly popular with non-English speaking and mainland tourists)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the battle for customers’ loyalty, most shopping centres have developed their own apps and selling points for them, for instance <a href="http://www.newtownplaza.com.hk/">New Town Plaza’s </a>(Sha Tin) app has a practical parked car and restaurant ticket tracking function.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hi-speed, convenience and reliability</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In short, <a href="http://www.discoverhongkong.com/uk/plan-your-trip/practicalities/communications/wi-fi.jsp">wifi-free zones are hard to find</a>. Rest, work, communication, play, it’s all done on mobile apps and handheld devices on-the-go or whilst engaging in another activity and/or second screen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hong Kong lifestyle</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hong Kongers have a reputation for being workaholics – to the extent it’s now commonly acceptable to answer work emails during communal mealtimes, even on holidays.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Consequently technology as a means maintaining youthful and healthy on the go is a growing priority for Hong Kongers on-the go – hence the rise of monitoring apps, fitness wearables, cosmetics and nutrition supplements, available to buy from vending machines at most MTR stations.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hong Kong & Mainland Chinese culture</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For many Hong Kong millenials, aspiring towards consumerism to secure social standing is still in vogue. If you can’t afford a flat, the next best thing is splurging on the latest gadgets, fashion and dining trends. It is the norm of defining one’s ‘individuality’, preferably as savvy, refined connoisseurs with higher income and social status than their peers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whether it’s iPhone6s or baby milk powder, the majority of mainland customers are concerned with product safety and authenticity– where knowledge from the internet is considered more trustworthy (this is where the QR codes come in for brand verification). They are curious and eager to learn more about your product or service with their devices.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Social and digital media outlet preferences vary greatly but as a whole Instagram, Whatsapp, Youtube and Facebook are the most popular with locals while mainlanders favour WeChat and Weibo – most retail brands in Hong Kong are accessible on 3 or more channels.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*including commercial tracking, entertainment and transport ticketing, product/loyalty marketing, in-store labelling (source: Wikipedia)</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-36121906030831163122014-06-21T17:25:00.002+01:002014-07-20T16:42:43.559+01:00The Horrors of Intimacy: 7 Killer True Blood Quotes<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Early followers of this blog will understand my feelings for HBO's <a href="http://www.hbo.com/true-blood">True Blood</a> (the phenomenal adaption of <a href="http://charlaineharris.com/">Charlaine Harris</a>' <a href="https://www.goodreads.com/series/42636-sookie-stackhouse">Sookie Stackhouse</a> Novels), Alan Ball's finest creation since Six Feet Under. As the <u>final 7th series premieres Sunday 22th June</u>, Alan and familiar supernatural/vampire/human faces share what saying goodbye means to them in this fascinating retrospective.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="color: #292f33; line-height: 18px;">"The truth is, out there people are weird, people get</span><span style="color: #292f33; line-height: 18px;"> freaky. It's OK."</span></i></span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="color: #292f33; font-size: large;"><i><span style="line-height: 18px;">"The 'Horrors of </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">intimacy</span><span style="line-height: 18px;">' is I </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">have</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> to admit, a phrase I pulled </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">out</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> of my ass when HBO asked over the phone, 'In 1 </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">sentence</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> tell me what this </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">show</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> is about'."</span></i></span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="color: #292f33;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Alan Ball, Creator</span></span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #292f33; font-size: large; line-height: 18px;">"I'm very conscious of bringing it back to a centre. W</span><span style="color: #292f33; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-size: large;">e had a lot of wild sex, we really let go of convention. But at the end of the day we want people to feel this is a love story."</span></span></i></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: #292f33; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><i><span style="line-height: 18px;">"</span><span style="line-height: 18px;">Wouldn't</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> it be great if when someone </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">pissed</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> us off we could just behead them?"</span></i></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #292f33; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><i><span style="line-height: 18px;">"The villains in this show have never been </span><span style="line-height: 18px;">just</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> evil. Everyone has something primal inside of them." </span></i></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #292f33; font-size: large; font-weight: bold; line-height: 18px;">"Every character in the series </span><span style="color: #292f33; font-size: large; font-weight: bold; line-height: 18px;">has</span><span style="color: #292f33; font-size: large; font-weight: bold; line-height: 18px;"> had the chance to fall in love, get their heart broken, pick up the pieces and keep going."</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #292f33; line-height: 18px;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><i>"I would like to think of it as the show that brought about world peace."</i></span></b></span></div>
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<b>For more True Blood on YouTube, subscribe to their channel <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPnlBOg4_NU9wdhRN-vzECQ">here</a></b></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-27180943456918986832014-05-25T19:34:00.002+01:002014-05-26T14:31:04.791+01:00Uncovering Clerkenwell Design Week 2014's Secrets<div style="color: #222222;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Clerkenwell Design Week Map. Source: clerkenwelldesignweek.com</span></td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a><i style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;">A first for myself, <a href="http://www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com/">Clerkenwell Design Week</a> 2014 was a 3-day hot-pink signposted discovery of top British and international designers housed in some of London's </i><i style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;">most illustrious buildings.</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222; font-size: large;">Locals and London history buffs will be aware of Clerkenwell's glorious watch-making past, dating back to the 18<sup>th</sup> century. Today it </span><span style="font-size: large;">has the highest concentration of creatives and architects in the world, yet still remains one of the least gentrified parts of the capital. So what happens when the old and the new creativity collide?</span></span><br />
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<b style="font-size: x-large;"><u><span style="font-family: inherit;">My CDW14 Highlights</span></u></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Farmiloe Building at St John St. Source: clerkenwelldesignweek.com</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>'The Design Factory' @<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18.200000762939453px;">The </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18.200000762939453px;">Farmiloe Building, </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.5px;">34 St John Street, London, EC1M 4AY</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #222222;">The disused </span><span style="color: #222222;">40,000 sq.ft warehouse</span><span style="color: #222222;"> once home to George Farmiloe & Sons' lead and glassworks (1868 to 1999) was a fittingly magnificent venue for a </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">showcase of </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">product design. With over 60 showrooms across four floors, l</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">et’s just say I’d never seen so many 'sexy chairs' and lighting in one place. </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">But it’s the Victorian architecture that truly takes your breath away. The eerie, airy faded grandeur of the Grade II-listed building commands respect. Eyes closed, you can almost picture it in its heyday - bright glowing kilns of molten glass, metal and the faces of dirty workers who risked lead fume </span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: large;">poisoning every day</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEbSETGRym0/U4IsLb3D4kI/AAAAAAAABDc/bES4ax-vKLg/s1600/stairs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="The Farmiloe Building interiors" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEbSETGRym0/U4IsLb3D4kI/AAAAAAAABDc/bES4ax-vKLg/s1600/stairs.jpg" title="The Farmiloe Building interiors" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Farmiloe Building's wrought iron staircase next to funky new lighting designs</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #222222;">Rugged and full of Dickensian character, c</span><span style="color: #222222;">harming features that survive include a spindly wrought-iron staircase which sprouts seemingly out of nowhere like a beanstalk. The abundance of natural light is also enough to make any sun-starved office worker envious. I</span><span style="color: #222222;">t’s little wonder The </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large; line-height: 18.200000762939453px;">Farmiloe B</span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: large;">uilding has been a popular film location of Hollywood blockbusters from Gotham City in 'The Dark Knight' to 'Sherlock Holmes'.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Prooff</b></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V7aKG5tasfg/U4ImSpk2joI/AAAAAAAABCY/GgO-TdqI8cQ/s1600/prooff_004_niche_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Prooff Niche Chair" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V7aKG5tasfg/U4ImSpk2joI/AAAAAAAABCY/GgO-TdqI8cQ/s1600/prooff_004_niche_001.jpg" title="Prooff Niche Chair" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Prooff's 'Niche Chair'. Source: dreamwall1.wordpress.com</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #222222;">Dutch company <a href="http://www.prooff.com/">PROOFF</a> creates ‘intimate dialogue for public space’. The ‘<a href="http://www.prooff.com/products/004-niche">Niche Chair</a>’ (design by <a href="http://www.prooff.com/designers/axia-design">Axia Design)</a> did exactly what the tin says. It’s sofa dream </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">of geeks</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">, which I imagine wouldn't look out of place at Google HQ. </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> A three-</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">walled, covered enclosure c</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">omplete with chargers beneath your seat</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">, it's r</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">oomy enough for two - </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">blocking yourself out from the world on your laptop is a breeze – or you can have a nice conversation with your neighbour. </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">My suggested further improvements to a PROOFF sales rep – namely embedded TV on either headboards outdoor-proof upholstery were </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">sadly</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">politely declined.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Stellaworks </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Established in 2008 by Japanese, French and Chinese founders, <a href="http://stellarworks.com/">Stellarworks</a> is a modern furniture company possessing a truly unique cross-cultural vision. The re-issued classics on show included this sleek <span style="color: #222222;">'<a href="http://stellarworks.com/cotton-club-chair">Cotton Club Chair</a>' by Italian designer/philosopher Carlo Forcolini.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222; font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #222222;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-etUfVCErB_g/U4InnwvsRdI/AAAAAAAABCo/ZddLqzwQCY8/s1600/cottonclub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Carlo Forcolini Cotton Club Chair" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-etUfVCErB_g/U4InnwvsRdI/AAAAAAAABCo/ZddLqzwQCY8/s1600/cottonclub.jpg" height="381" title="Carlo Forcolini Cotton Club Chair" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">'Cotton Club Chair'. Source: stellarworks.com</span></td></tr>
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</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">I also loved the duck-egg blue hue on this '</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><a href="http://stellarworks.com/content/piano-chair-1955-indigo-leather">Piano Chair</a>'</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"> made with </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">dyed leather and wood (a 600-year old Japanese tradition) by Danish designer Vilhelm Wohlertm- thus justifying my earlier use of the term ‘sexy chair’.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ezcgUa5B8tA/U4IoLC_MWKI/AAAAAAAABCw/J9uk_F6kwdQ/s1600/pianochair.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Vilhelm Wohlertm Piano Chair" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ezcgUa5B8tA/U4IoLC_MWKI/AAAAAAAABCw/J9uk_F6kwdQ/s1600/pianochair.JPG" height="385" title="Vilhelm Wohlertm Piano Chair" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">'Piano Chair'. Source: stellarworks.com</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Auxilium Salvage</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Against stiff competition <a href="http://www.auxilium-salvage.com/">Auxilium Salvage</a>’s candy-coloured recycled German lamps caught my eye (They're on <a href="https://twitter.com/AuxiliumSalvage">Twitter</a> and <a href="http://instagram.com/auxiliumsalvage">Instagram</a> too, go follow). Rescued from a disused cable factory in Cologne and lovingly refurbished in London, these fun, space-age hair dryer shaped lights strike the right balance between the age-old 'Form versus Function' dilemma.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N1laAfldzVQ/U4IpJOipSoI/AAAAAAAABC4/qRXNKcGrus8/s1600/auxiliumjpg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Auxilium Salvage 'Candy Collection' lamps" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N1laAfldzVQ/U4IpJOipSoI/AAAAAAAABC4/qRXNKcGrus8/s1600/auxiliumjpg.jpg" height="479" title="Auxilium Salvage 'Candy Collection' lamps" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Auxilium Salvage 'Candy Collection' at The Design Factory</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">'Details' @The Order of St. John, </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.5px;"><span style="font-size: large;">St John's Square, Clerkenwell, EC1V 4JJ</span></span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="background-image: initial; background-repeat: initial;">A <a href="http://www.museumstjohn.org.uk/">Medieval crypt and church garden</a> might sound like a creepy exhibition venue, but considered in context ('Details' celebrates the f</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.5px;">ine craftsmanship and high glamour of luxury interiors), it was</span> a stroke of genius. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gxqqvg9oaXM/U4IrOwtCceI/AAAAAAAABDM/8ssgC4wvPI8/s1600/edra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Edra x Campana Brothers 'Vermelha' chair " border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gxqqvg9oaXM/U4IrOwtCceI/AAAAAAAABDM/8ssgC4wvPI8/s1600/edra.jpg" height="640" title="Edra x Campana Brothers 'Vermelha' chair " width="478" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The famous Edra x Campana Brothers 'Vermelha' chair in the Norman Crypt</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Known
for its tactile, avant-garde pieces, Italian brand <a href="http://www.edra.com/">Edra </a>showcased chairs designed by the <a href="http://campanas.com.br/">Campana Brothers</a>, made from frankly bonkers sources - including one made of stuffed leather dolphins. Juxtaposed against the Norman Crypt's gorgeous stained glass windows and resting tombs of presumably rather famous 12th century knights - the chairs appear strangely venerable; the dampness in the air amplifying their precious quality.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8gFAB0V_LV8/U4IrluAqOVI/AAAAAAAABDU/CHNe2YUdnks/s1600/stjohn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="The Order of St John Cloister Garden" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8gFAB0V_LV8/U4IrluAqOVI/AAAAAAAABDU/CHNe2YUdnks/s1600/stjohn.jpg" title="The Order of St John Cloister Garden" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Order of St John Cloister Garden</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-image: initial; background-repeat: initial;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-image: initial; background-repeat: initial;">In contrast, outside</span> visitors were welcomed to relax on contemporary furniture in the company of the cloister garden's </span><span style="font-size: large;">tranquil</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">monument and </span><span style="font-size: large;">herb-filled surroundings - an unexpected oasis amid the typical break-neck hustle and bustle of London's Tech City. It took me a while to adjust to the element of surprise - it (the old with the new) shouldn't work, but here it does.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-image: initial; background-repeat: initial;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">I ended my evening feeling curiously rewarded. <a href="http://www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com/">Clerkenwell Des</a><span style="color: #222222;"><a href="http://www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com/">ign Week</a> is a rare example of the ‘something old, something new’ clichéd promise done good. While the talent may not have been mind-blowingly brilliant this year, the event has made new visitors appreciate the beautiful designs of overlooked historical gems in a new light. CDW may be over for now, but there’s still time to get exploring before the bulldozers inevitably come in.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photography by Christina Lai unless stated otherwise.</span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com2Clerkenwell, London EC1V, UK51.52276 -0.10384199999998626.000725499999998 -41.412435999999985 77.0447945 41.204752000000013tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-33957132305195020652014-01-28T21:01:00.001+00:002014-01-28T21:01:54.881+00:00A Spaniard in London, Enrique Perezalba Red Interview in Klei Magazine. Issue 1, Jan/Feb 14<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">“I create seductive art that turns heads like a beautiful woman walking down the street.”</span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ydORRfFx470/UuU9TpY8AnI/AAAAAAAAA_s/aWIdOx-b5QM/s1600/perezalbared.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="enrique_perezalba_red" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ydORRfFx470/UuU9TpY8AnI/AAAAAAAAA_s/aWIdOx-b5QM/s1600/perezalbared.jpg" title="enrique_perezalba_red" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enrique Perezalba ceramic mixed media works (clockwise from top left) The Absent Joker, Body Armours, The Three Grazes (Detail), The Three Grazes, Gentle, The Absent Joker (centre)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Bold suggestive sculptures, dripping with the sensuality of
the body...you don’t need to read Freud to tell what the Spanish-born artist <a href="http://www.enriqueperezalbared.com/">Enrique Perezalba Red</a>'s work is about.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm at an east London studio (belonging to British potter Kate Malone, but more on that later), to
interview the fresh <a href="http://www.rca.ac.uk/schools/school-of-material/ceramics/">Ceramics &Glass MA</a> graduate from the <a href="http://www.rca.ac.uk/">Royal College of Art</a>. </span><span style="font-size: large;">The former art director (who’d previously studied
scenography at Central Saint Martins and dance at London’s prestigious Rambert School)
has just flown back from Barcelona. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
Wasting no time, he jauntily undresses the tightly-wrapped plastic to show me his works-in-progress, entitled ‘Body
Armours’. It’s a continuation of his graduate show ceramics which explores
historical armours in a rather intriguing way. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Why ‘Body Armours’?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My work has always been about my fascination with sexuality
and the human body. Armours enhance and echo that. Researching 16-18<sup>th</sup> century examples
in archives, I noticed differences, like the plain and functional aesthetic of German
armours, whereas Spanish and Italian armours were decorative and impractical. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">These expensive commissions were status symbols − the genitals, thighs and
feet were exaggerated in an extremely feminine way similar to costume. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I take a section of the armour and make it bigger in clay. When
you take an element out of its context it almost becomes something else, people
never relate it to the original. That’s what I like. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>How has your varied arts
education background influenced you?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've sculpted since I was a child and grew up always wanting
to study fine art. But when the time came, I didn't want to. I wanted to learn art restoration at a famous Madrid art school but I failed to pass the entry
exam three times. I decided to study ballet and contemporary dance in London instead. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I fell in love with the movement of the body at Rambert Dance
School. But I didn't think I was a good enough dancer. I missed making things
with my hands, after two years I applied to study scenography − where I
learned to direct and create film props, commercial sets, lighting and TV
costumes – anything visual. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>How did you come to
study ceramics?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After graduating at Saint Martins I did a lot of
site-specific performance art, which got me noticed by the fashion and
advertising industry. For eight years I was a freelance art director working in
London and Spain across fashion shoots, shows and commercials. But in the last
three years I felt like I wanted to create sculpture again. I was seduced by
the glossy, polished surface of ceramics, particularly sanitary ware. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was taking evening classes in Spain when my pottery tutor
told me about a visiting British ceramicist called <a href="http://www.katemaloneceramics.com/">Kate Malone</a>, that I should meet
her. I couldn't believe her work was made by hand the first time I saw it. I
started working as her ceramic assistant after three months. She taught me everything
and encouraged me to apply for the <a href="http://www.rca.ac.uk/schools/school-of-material/ceramics/">RCA</a>, which I got accepted into 2nd time in 2011.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>What was the most
valuable thing you learned at the RCA?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As students we learned from each other because we were such
a mixed group – designers, craftspeople and fine artists of ceramics and glass
all under the same department. I had a brilliant personal tutor (the internationally
renowned British ceramicist <a href="http://www.rca.ac.uk/more/staff/alison-britton/">Alison Britton</a>) in my second year. She was always challenging and questioning me
to make sure my vision was translating into my work. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Can you tell me about
your making process?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I start by looking many images so they come into my head by
the time I start making. I never draw
because I find it too restrictive. I can
coil 4-6 inches a day before it needs to be left to dry so it’s a long process.
</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I struggle to make
things the same as before</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"> because I follow the personality of the material. </span>The negative space inside the form is as important
as the outside. The surface and lines of the curves are very important. I always
have around 20 different hack-saw blades with different-sized teeth − some
rough, some smooth, for shaping and polishing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Why do you incorporate mixed
media with your ceramics?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">I link the modern with the old and I've never felt
restricted by different materials. For ‘The Three Grazes’, I wanted to
show how the perception of naked legs changes a lot just by applying a sheer,
almost transparent mesh − so I put fishnet stockings over them, recreating that
feeling of the soft against the hard. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In ‘Body Armours’ I used a laquer instead of a glaze over the whole piece,a glossy, uniform finish, like the surface
of Lamborghinis and Ferraris – they’re status symbols and extensions of the
body.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Do you consider
yourself a ceramicist? An artist? A craftsman?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">I see myself as a sculptor, an artist. I don’t feel defined
by the material I use. Would you call someone who works in bronze a ‘bronzist’?
I’ve cast pieces in bronze before but I always start off with clay. I find it
magical you can take a piece of earth and turn it into anything you want.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>What do your clients
and the British audience think of your work?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So far the response has been positive. During my summer graduation
show a middle-aged man was looking at my work for a long time. He walked over and
said, “Your work is very evocative; I can’t put my finger on why”. “That’s
right”, I told him. My goal is to create art that makes people think, I don’t
care what it is that comes to their mind. It’s about having references to many
things – the body, nature, machine, but nothing in particular. For me art has
to stimulate your senses and emotions before touching your intellect. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>What’s next?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've been a ceramicist living and working in London for two
years now. After I move into my new studio, I’d like to focus on consolidating
gallery relationships. The pieces I showed you are a part of a ‘Body Armour’ commission
I’m making for Gallery Fumi, a Sardinian contemporary design space in East
London. I’ve been shortlisted for the South London Hotel Art Prize for new
talent and in November I’m exhibiting at the Roca Gallery designed by Zaha
Hadid, showing my new collection of sanitary ware. (<i>Laughs)</i> So in a way I’m going back to where I started. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
<a href="http://www.klei.nl/">http://www.klei.nl/</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.enriqueperezalbared.com/">http://www.enriqueperezalbared.com/</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-29006893832284903122013-11-03T15:36:00.002+00:002013-11-03T15:36:21.993+00:00The World According to Carol McNicoll, Interview in Klei Magazine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AGU504Z5Nzo/UnZfwhb-6sI/AAAAAAAAA6k/MglEAlYW-RE/s640/klei+gb+cover.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="444" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Klei Magazine 'Great British Special Edition' cover, featuring Clare Twomey's 'Monument' 2009</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Recently I was asked to interview Carol McNicoll, the incredible British potter extraordinaire (a
noun I don't use lightly) for <a href="http://www.klei.nl/">Klei Magazine</a> on their 'Great British Special Edition' (Nov/Dec 2013), which also features <a href="http://www.claretwomey.com/">Clare Twomey</a>, British studio pottery and the recent happenings in Stoke-on-Trent.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I caught up with arguably the most industrious creative in Camden, nearly two years on after our <a href="http://christinas-anatomy.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/breaking-mould-interview-with-carol.html">Breaking the Mould interview</a> during her 'Ideal Home' <a href="http://www.marsdenwoo.com/welcome.htm">Marsden Woo</a> exhibition back in late 2011.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">For
those of you who don't speak Dutch (myself included), our
opinion-filled conversation consisted of French vs. British taste, the craft revival and whether she think it's still realistic to be an artist in the digital age.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Watch out for an upcoming Klei interview with the very talented Spanish ceramicist and RCA rising star <a href="http://www.enriqueperezalbared.com/">Enrique Perezalba Red </a>in early 2014. </span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dp0Bu-BW7N8/UnZflSVMWpI/AAAAAAAAA6c/IzqyudjjoVE/s1600/pg1+klei+carol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dp0Bu-BW7N8/UnZflSVMWpI/AAAAAAAAA6c/IzqyudjjoVE/s1600/pg1+klei+carol.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'The World According to Carol McNicoll' interview</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOq8mORFRWg/UnZff-jGrvI/AAAAAAAAA6U/Q9R38NJgitE/s1600/pg+2+klei+carol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOq8mORFRWg/UnZff-jGrvI/AAAAAAAAA6U/Q9R38NJgitE/s1600/pg+2+klei+carol.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'The World According to Carol McNicoll' interview</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-21961907332767517592013-10-09T02:04:00.000+01:002013-10-09T02:04:01.060+01:007 Things You Never Knew about Canada till You Read 'Fashion'<div style="text-align: left;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"> Canadian Fashion gets Serious</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MIAzooQhFts/UlSdnXNGm1I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/zqpYPbOKAms/s1600/daria.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">h<img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MIAzooQhFts/UlSdnXNGm1I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/zqpYPbOKAms/s640/daria.jpg" width="483" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daria Werbowy on Fashion's October 2013 issue</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">According to my long-suffering cousins, the Canadians are a misunderstood bunch. Popular myths beyond the border involve igloo housing, lesser technology and the assumption that everyone speaks French (when the French-speaking population is mostly found in Quebec). </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Let's just say the last thing I expected from my recent visit was intelligent, intriguing fashion and beauty journalism from a Canadian perspective. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a few eye-brow raising facts I learned about Canada from its best-selling women's' magazine <a href="http://www.fashionmagazine.com/">Fashion</a> (October 2013), starring none other than Ukrainian-Canadian super Daria Werbowy.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>7 Curiously Canadian Fashion Facts </b></u></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1. The shopping pages are divided by province (</b><b>that's how big the country is) </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">At nearly 10 square kilometres (the second largest country in the world), the existence of only 5 Louis Vuitton boutiques feels a bit mean. Besides high-end department stores like <a href="http://www.holtrenfrew.com/">Holt Renfrew</a>, <a href="http://www.gravitypope.com/">Gravity Pope</a> (the go-to for footwear), the rest are independent boutiques scattered across trendy districts in Montreal, Toronoto, Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver, stocked with top international and local designers. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. They're obsessed with all things British </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">"Maybe it's the class system, the stiff upper lip or the Queen, but something about the Brits makes them born to rebel."</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">While I don't completely agree with all of the above, there's little doubt of 'The British Invasion' in Canada. It was surprising to see the extent of it - from short hair ("British girls are more adventurous"), mod (Agyness Deyn's Dr Martens collab), punk, handbags (the Mulberry Bayswater finally arrives!), British models (Stella Tennant to Edie Campbell) and promising talents like Jean-Pierre Braganza. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">
3. But they put a Canadian twist on it obviously<span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h4>
<h4 id="post-151754">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">For example, London-based designers Jean-Pierre Braganza and Erdem were both born in Canada (in Toronto and Montreal respectively). </span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h4>
<h4 id="post-151754">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hVgUkNKYg7w/UlSetbhsh0I/AAAAAAAAA3c/Vg0cSCSA9_c/s1600/jpb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hVgUkNKYg7w/UlSetbhsh0I/AAAAAAAAA3c/Vg0cSCSA9_c/s1600/jpb.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h4 id="post-151754">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W13</span></span></h4>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></h4>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>4. Canada's Got Talent </b></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Discovering <a href="http://melissaaraujo.com/">Melissa Araujo</a> (see dress below) was a weak-in-the-knees moment for me. Minimalist, interchangeable and affordable, her pieces offer serious wardrobe ROI. A selection of her designs are available to purchase on her website, which also showcases her brilliant fashion illustrations</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mPx9WMOHYtA/UlSM8gFhpcI/AAAAAAAAA3A/VRh8doeTdu4/s1600/melissaaraujo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mPx9WMOHYtA/UlSM8gFhpcI/AAAAAAAAA3A/VRh8doeTdu4/s640/melissaaraujo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look#37 from Melissa Araju's 'Linear' collection</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The magazine's <a href="http://www.fashionmagazine.com/blogs/fashion/2013/10/01/canadian-outerwear-designers/">'Top Coats'</a>
Canadian outerwear special is also noteworthy, not least since freezing
winters can drop below -40°. Serbian born, Toronto-based designer Bojana
Sentaler Nikolic (of <a href="http://www.sentaler.com/">Sentaler</a>) and her luxuriously tailored 40s wartime-inspired coats win my vote. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>5. Kick-ass Ads (starring fashion bloggers)</b></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V34COpjG-SI/UlSgfByNfRI/AAAAAAAAA3o/OfoMM82jhJ4/s1600/tampax.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christina Caradona's ad for Tampax Radiant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">How refreshing to see New York model/<a href="http://troprouge.blogspot.co.uk/">Trop Rouge </a>blogger Christina Caradona front a Tampax ad campaign with pride. It's a step in reducing the awkwardness of traditional faceless western ads. In southeast Asia (countries which are supposedly more 'conservative') celebrities as feminine hygiene product spokespeople are nothing new. Seriously, it's time to grow up. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This also exemplifies the growing trend of bloggers becoming public print and TV faces of major brands.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>6. Vichy is Canada's no. 1 skincare brand</b></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Who knew? Known for its French thermal spring water formulations (sourced from the town Vichy) </span><span style="font-size: large;">and diverse targeted skincare lines, mid-priced Vichy comes up on top. Available in the UK from <a href="http://www.boots.com/en/Vichy/">Boots</a>. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>7. Danier Leather</b></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uWwleiGFQcQ/UlSi9bqXHwI/AAAAAAAAA30/gHWO9dj_s7k/s1600/danier+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uWwleiGFQcQ/UlSi9bqXHwI/AAAAAAAAA30/gHWO9dj_s7k/s1600/danier+copy.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danier Bucket Tote </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">A vertically-integrated retailer whose leather collections are sold exclusively in Canada, <a href="http://www.danier.com/">Danier</a> is probably the country's best kept-fashion secret. Classic styles, functional, high-quality leather clothing and accessories</span><span style="font-size: large;"> (for men and women)</span><span style="font-size: large;"> at purse-friendly prices that look every bit the designer. Visiting Canada soon? I highly recommend Danier's outlets for tempting bargains.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Image credits from top: art8amby.wordpress.com, catwalking.com, melissaaraujo.com, stocklandmartelblog.com, danier.com</span></span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-44111771612083309742013-09-30T14:42:00.000+01:002013-09-30T14:42:11.543+01:00The Great Time Out Takeover − The I.T crowd<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yy1MFNsHUW4/Ukl9JzhJz9I/AAAAAAAAA10/CWvvHtniwSc/s1600/TimeOutTakeoverCover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yy1MFNsHUW4/Ukl9JzhJz9I/AAAAAAAAA10/CWvvHtniwSc/s640/TimeOutTakeoverCover.jpg" width="464" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It's not every day you get to write for one of London's best loved and
unbelievably free magazines. So sounding like an unapologetic cliché, when <a href="http://www.timeout.com/london">Time Out</a> announced its reader takeover issue, I jumped at the chance.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;">I was in Canada last Tuesday when my father emailed me a scan of my Hong
Kong fashion feature on the I.T pop-up at <a href="http://style.selfridges.com/whats-in/it-hong-kong-arrives-exclusively-selfridges-london">Selfridges</a> in the latest printed
mag. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;">A number of expletives followed, conveying my excitement to my befuddled
cousins.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;">I hope you'll like it. Let me know what you think!</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAwVtxkSVnc/Ukl9IqUt5XI/AAAAAAAAA1s/xR3Pcd7Zafc/s1600/TimeOutTakeoverITfashion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="630" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAwVtxkSVnc/Ukl9IqUt5XI/AAAAAAAAA1s/xR3Pcd7Zafc/s640/TimeOutTakeoverITfashion.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-15407022713414834852013-08-29T15:24:00.005+01:002013-08-29T22:43:23.524+01:007 Reasons Why You Should Read Chinese Fashion Magazines <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Why now's a fashionable time to start learning Chinese </span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--7kG0N1PByo/Uh9Rc7dKP9I/AAAAAAAAAv0/e-8G7aQOAdA/s1600/Shupei+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--7kG0N1PByo/Uh9Rc7dKP9I/AAAAAAAAAv0/e-8G7aQOAdA/s640/Shupei+cover.jpg" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Shu Pei is the stunning cover model for Elle HK September 2012 issue</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Two nights ago, 2.30am, ridiculously bored on Twitter and
desperate for self-amusement before bed, I was rummaging the mountains of
plastic bags that are a permanent fixture in my room – where I found something
that didn’t belong.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">An unopened,
sealed September 2012 issue of <a href="http://www.elle.com.hk/">Elle HK</a>. I’d picked it up for a measly HK$10 (about
£1.50 for two inches, plus you get Elle Health & Beauty for free) at
Chep Lap Kok airport on my way back to the UK last August. Turns out I’d taken
it back home and completely forgotten about it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">It’s interesting because I’m not one for conscious delayed-gratification.
Patience is not my forte and I’ve never withheld the urge to rip off crisp
polythene bags off anything for more than five seconds. In a strange way, it
was like opening a time capsule of my own culture (I was studiously raised on a
bilingual diet of local and foreign magazines). Yes, I know it’s a year old,
but had the content, tone and reader in fashion magazines changed since I left
Kowloon for Kent?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -24px;"><span style="font-size: large;">1. The ads</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nyzNMfPY0nY/Uh9Rt4CoWcI/AAAAAAAAAv8/n8W4V6iUgE4/s1600/bally+switzerland.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Im<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">age source:
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<!--StartFragment--><span style="line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://awake-smile.blogspot.co.uk/">http://awake-smile.blogspot.co.uk</a></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWhYVkvy208/Uh9R77goorI/AAAAAAAAAwE/ItjMHBBoE_E/s1600/paulsmith.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWhYVkvy208/Uh9R77goorI/AAAAAAAAAwE/ItjMHBBoE_E/s640/paulsmith.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Advertising in fashion magazines fascinates me – both the
model and brand reflect capitalist aspirations of readers. I have never met a
Chinese woman in my life who would think twice on splurging on the latest It-bag
or skincare, even if it meant living off stale bread crusts for the next month
to pay rent. Chinese women are far more likely to be working high-flying
workers than pram-pushing housewives, so owning the right brands is essential
in portraying an ever competitive social image of success. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Timeless French and Italian houses like Dior, Louis Vuitton,
Hermes, Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Versace and Armani are popular, as is the chic
elegant European aristocrat look – Nicole Kidman, Sophie Marceau considered
classic beauties in luxury ads. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">I’ve picked my two favourite ads from the issue. The postcard
perfect scene of Bally’s FW12 ad depicts Verbier’s famous Chalet d’Adrie in
Switzerland<b>, </b>starring Hilary Rhoda and Caroline Trentin<b>i</b>. I love the
irony of selling winter ski coats to a subtropical region that will never snow.
It taps into the customer’s wishful fantasy and I think it’s brilliant. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">The second ad I loved was for Paul Smith featuring
subsequent portraits of Suzie Bird, her eyes open in one and closed in the
other. I’ve seen Kate Moss in similar versions of the ad but I think this one
encapsulates British quirkiness and wit more – with a whiff of Magritte.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">2. We’re starting to talk about SEX(and other
taboos)</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjRUwuREefk/Uh9Sj-0LMII/AAAAAAAAAwQ/Z4aIebVTACM/s1600/modelssex.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjRUwuREefk/Uh9Sj-0LMII/AAAAAAAAAwQ/Z4aIebVTACM/s640/modelssex.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">The liberal conversations and serious debates the western
world take for granted, like sex, exploitation and body image are a relatively
young phenomenon in conservative Asian cultures. I particularly enjoyed the
frankness of Marky Lo’s discussion on the ethics of sexual images in fashion
advertising. To quote, “I remember being shocked the first time I saw an
American Apparel ad on Portobello Rd during a London visit. I went in, left with a new windbreaker
and realised that’s how some companies make money these days”.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">3. Our real-life office dramas</span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sckGTb8aCoM/Uh9S8ysBQKI/AAAAAAAAAwY/tgzl9Ner8kg/s1600/evilgen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sckGTb8aCoM/Uh9S8ysBQKI/AAAAAAAAAwY/tgzl9Ner8kg/s640/evilgen.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">No, this isn’t a piece on the newest
anti-stress boxing trend, but it’s office tensions caused by the increasing
generation gap. It’s common for baby boomers, generation X and Y (which it
fondly labels ‘The Evil Generation’) to misunderstand and be at each other’s
necks – they’ve been raised in very different eras. Cue stories of horrified line
managers fed up of insubordinate, spoilt ‘little children’ with ‘no manners’. It all sounds quite familiar but
highlights the importance of keeping lines of communication open in the
workplace rather than resort to bathroom bitching. Especially when we all use the same ladies’
room.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">4. Chinese models working it</span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Oy0DNhWhQ4/Uh9TN3AQDfI/AAAAAAAAAwg/yigRaaGw1OA/s1600/kenzo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Oy0DNhWhQ4/Uh9TN3AQDfI/AAAAAAAAAwg/yigRaaGw1OA/s1600/kenzo.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QL_mWDRKQvw/Uh9TZAahgQI/AAAAAAAAAwo/WZkyBITkfZA/s1600/ju+xiao+wen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QL_mWDRKQvw/Uh9TZAahgQI/AAAAAAAAAwo/WZkyBITkfZA/s640/ju+xiao+wen.jpg" width="443" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With names like Shu Pei, Fei-Fei Sun having walked for every
major designer in the last six years (<a href="http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2013/aug/22/liu-wen-joan-smalls-forbes-models">Supermodel Liu Wen made history just daysago as the first Asian Victoria’s Secret angel</a>), the rising prominence of
Chinese models is hardly news.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Yet
I’m pleased that after a good 20 years of idolising a specific Western look (especially
in fashion, less so in beauty)- big eyes, fluttery lashes, delicate noses and
impossible cheekbones, fashion brands are finally using women that look
remotely like the customers unzipping their Miu Miu wallets. Fashion is
embracing diversity more than ever and the world’s a better place because of
it. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Check out 21 yr old Xiao Wen Ju in this striking neon club-inspired Kenzo
ad and winter coat shoot. Known for her wide-spaced, tiny seed eyes on her
porcelain doll face - Xiao is the epitome of the unconventional beauty that is
new even to the Chinese. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0px;">
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">5. We’ve finally embraced high fashion</span></b></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvva-qkLlhI/Uh9T59NyrAI/AAAAAAAAAww/TIyge7Wm4Us/s1600/margiela.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvva-qkLlhI/Uh9T59NyrAI/AAAAAAAAAww/TIyge7Wm4Us/s640/margiela.jpg" width="430" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This Maison Martin Margiela jewelled mask and jacket
ensemble is an acquired taste (<a href="http://christinas-anatomy.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/reminiscingv-postmodernism-style-and.html">Read my comments on Leigh Browery’s dance costumes for MichaelClark & Company’s ‘Because We Must’</a>). It’s unlikely to catch on anytime soon,
but the mere publication of the image is mini breakthrough in its own right.
The Chinese are finally acknowledging the avant-garde creativity of
high-fashion, even though we still prefer to wear the rocks on our fingers. </span></div>
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<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">6. We bloody love the Brits</span></b></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3TKfH3E4Zak/Uh9ULLoYzMI/AAAAAAAAAw4/OQErbhxUklM/s1600/viv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3TKfH3E4Zak/Uh9ULLoYzMI/AAAAAAAAAw4/OQErbhxUklM/s640/viv.jpg" width="534" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">16 years after the 1997 handover, the emotional remnants of
Hong Kong’s British colonial heritage linger; there is still great fondness (perhaps 'fetish' is a more accurate term)for
all things British – whether it’s their fashion, education or culture. I’d
argue the word in itself represents quality, freedom and taste there (of course
they haven’t watched an episode of ‘Shameless’). </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This issue was published just
after the London 2012 Olympics and features a lot of interviews with British
designers like Vivienne Westwood. Like the Brits, the Chinese love a Dame - her
orb logo as ubiquitous and has enjoyed a cult-like status for what feels like
eternity. The article also previews her then newly launched Queen’s
jubilee-inspired Red Capsule Collection, which still leaves a certain type of
girl (and boy) dewy eyed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Viv should watch her back though, as new talents like
Christopher Kane and Gareth Pugh are gaining momentum with the younger market
who don’t want to dress in head-to-toe Moschino like their mums.</span></div>
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<b style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">7. We really, really bloody love the Brits (especially the
ones we lost too soon)</span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Qw-kbeiMIs/Uh9WyacwG8I/AAAAAAAAAxE/TPVG1Isu13A/s1600/shupei2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Qw-kbeiMIs/Uh9WyacwG8I/AAAAAAAAAxE/TPVG1Isu13A/s640/shupei2.jpg" width="438" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Shu Pei </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">Image source: <a href="http://www.huayibrothersfashion.com/">http://www.huayibrothersfashion.com</a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Extract from interview with 23 year old Beijing cover model
Shu Pei:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Elle: You mentioned being moved by something Alexander McQueen
said?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shu Pei: It was the last show before his death. We were
wearing these extremely high and painful heels and models kept falling over during
rehearsal. Moments before the
show, McQueen looked at every single girl and told us to walk very slowly. “You
must take care and not rush. If the girl in front of you falls, don’t walk over
her, stop and help her up.” I was so touched; he was a really kind man.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">All translation and scans have been done by myself unless specified otherwise.</span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-39253272153966204982013-08-10T20:57:00.002+01:002014-08-27T11:37:18.145+01:00Hot Off the Press - Phoenix Fashion and Design Features<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Like our Great British weather, <a href="http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/">PHOENIX Magazine's</a> new summer issue 'Sunshine & Showers' is out now. Starring the sexy siren/tv kitchen goddess which is Gizzi Erskine (the only woman who can pose tattooing a piece of pork belly and still look smokin' hot), designer Tom Dixon and actress Vanessa Kirby, this issue's a scorcher not to be missed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWlW_4Mg1QU/UgamsK9m8WI/AAAAAAAAAso/IOk3LPOhUgA/s1600/ISSUE1OCOVER.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Gizzi Erskine PHOENIX cover" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWlW_4Mg1QU/UgamsK9m8WI/AAAAAAAAAso/IOk3LPOhUgA/s640/ISSUE1OCOVER.jpg" height="640" title="Gizzi Erskine PHOENIX cover" width="482" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a snippet from the magazine's 'The Showpiece' page I edited, a breathtaking smashed porcelain print dress by Latvian/Israeli London duo <a href="http://fyodorgolan.co.uk/">Fyodor Golan</a>, from their <a href="http://fyodorgolan.co.uk/fg/Holy-Mountain-S-S-13/look-book/look-view">'Holy Mountain'</a> collection. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Known for their attention to detail that dramatically accentuates the figure, I for one can't wait to see what their September <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1864">LFW</a> SS14 catwalk has in store.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Fyodor Golan Holy Mountain Dress" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9mP2EQWncUY/UgYWhbBmm4I/AAAAAAAAAr8/anSto7IuOa8/s640/Fyodor+Golan+Phoenix+Showpiece+.jpg" height="640" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Fyodor Golan Holy Mountain Dress" width="460" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Charlie Bettinson</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">From 18k plated-gold teapots, up-cycled Cold War lighting to the flamboyant designer of 'Happy Chic', here's a few more PHOENIX pieces I've authored.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Click on the links below the images to read the whole story. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PB3b0KwHmKs/UgYYe_tbCWI/AAAAAAAAAsM/y6fKXsrVXnE/s1600/phoenix+blog+teapots+and+adler.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="Surreal Teapots & Jonathan Adler" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PB3b0KwHmKs/UgYYe_tbCWI/AAAAAAAAAsM/y6fKXsrVXnE/s1600/phoenix+blog+teapots+and+adler.jpg" title="Surreal Teapots & Jonathan Adler" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qdr3x9ms63A/UgaolEXT2tI/AAAAAAAAAs4/HcyerGiRrNw/s1600/blom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Blom&Blom" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qdr3x9ms63A/UgaolEXT2tI/AAAAAAAAAs4/HcyerGiRrNw/s1600/blom.jpg" title="Blom&Blom" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/blog/summer-special-surreal-teapots/"><span style="font-size: large;">http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/blog/summer-special-surreal-teapots/</span></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/blog/designing-happy-chic-with-jonathan-adler/"><span style="font-size: large;">http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/blog/designing-happy-chic-with-jonathan-adler/</span></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/features/blom-blom-lighting-design/"><span style="font-size: large;">http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/features/blom-blom-lighting-design/</span></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-11335369854133410442013-07-02T12:25:00.000+01:002013-07-02T12:25:13.786+01:00The Cream of New Designers' Ceramic Crop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">It is a truth universally acknowledged that <a href="http://www.newdesigners.com/">New Designers </a>showcases great ceramics. An exaggeration perhaps, but the past five consecutive years of surprise-filled visits have suggested otherwise. Here's 5 exciting emerging designers that prove why the infinite possibilities mean clay is still one of the the most seductive materials they can't keep their hands off. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7rk0pNeaMMc/UdCZd0VZakI/AAAAAAAAAfI/HcK-7y9JTCA/s858/davidmarques.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7rk0pNeaMMc/UdCZd0VZakI/AAAAAAAAAfI/HcK-7y9JTCA/s640/davidmarques.jpg" width="447" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David Marques (Central Saint Martins)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>David Marques</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Central Saint Martins is one of the best ceramics BA courses in the country right now, judging from the calibre of its students' work. Marques is a Portuguese designer who has worked previously in the Geneva watch business. Remarkable attention to detail is evident in this stunning, functional clock with hand-painted gold transfers. It was custom made as part of an installation of seven cuckoo clocks for prestigious Portuguese porcelain company </span><span style="font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.vistaalegreatlantis.com/">Vista Alegre's</a> flagship stores in Lisbon and Porto.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WxqnIG7qsNE/UdCZcS7OebI/AAAAAAAAAe8/66yyWATlq2g/s1100/annie-jones.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="452" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WxqnIG7qsNE/UdCZcS7OebI/AAAAAAAAAe8/66yyWATlq2g/s640/annie-jones.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">Annie Jones (University of Sunderland), </span></span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">Annie Jones</span></span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">Is it a miniature garden? A new form of cigarettes-in-plaster contemporary art? Just some of the wild (and obviously wrong) possibilities that crossed my mind when I first saw Jones' intriguing vitrines. Jones' living laboratories are an ongoing body of research exploring the contained reactions of raw chemicals in clay bodies, over time and exposed to varying conditions. The effects fluctuate massively and result in striking patterns and vivid colours, like the container above showing purple crystallised chalks drawing up green copper oxide (a potent glaze colourant) from the white porcelain, a process known as chromatography.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cYv1oKow0po/UdCZa-CtPNI/AAAAAAAAAe0/zs4W4z3z64s/s800/antpipe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cYv1oKow0po/UdCZa-CtPNI/AAAAAAAAAe0/zs4W4z3z64s/s640/antpipe.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ant Pipe (<span class="st">De Montfort University)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Ant Pipe</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Repurposing moulds and debris collected from the derelict <a href="http://www.spode.co.uk/">Spode</a> factory site in Stoke-on-Trent, Pipe pays homage to the 18th century innovators who made English fine bone china world famous. The make-up-like hues and textures of the miniature pots range from the smoothest white to the blackest, rock-like of clays – a delight to the senses.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bLslT2ip1sE/UdCZdBOk8kI/AAAAAAAAAfE/aXrQQvVuCtU/s800/charlottemaypack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bLslT2ip1sE/UdCZdBOk8kI/AAAAAAAAAfE/aXrQQvVuCtU/s640/charlottemaypack.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlotte Mary Pack (Central Saint Martins)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Charlotte Mary Pack</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Having raised in a farm, Pack's love for animals is unquestionable, exemplified by an astonishing installation of tiny hand-modelled and sculpted porcelain mammals on the endangered species list (I lost count, but over 200 would be my guess). All creatures big and small are included – from a tree rat that measures approximately 10mm by 5mm (slightly bigger than a tic-tac), scaling up to the lifelike, fist-sized mountain gorilla. The designer has plans to make a similar work raising awareness on reptiles facing extinction due to man-made destruction. Surely a commission from Stella McCartney is on the horizon?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KHRWxU080JA/UdCZattAIOI/AAAAAAAAAeo/X3tw4eb_voI/s640/carysevans.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="426" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carys Joan Evans (Falmouth University)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Carys Joan Evans</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Perfectly proportioned at around a foot, Evans' elf-like human and flora hybrids encapsulate the imagination of the young Welsh maker who counts landscapes as a huge source of inspiration. The mellow brown, green and yellow glazes as well as the unusual organic materials she incorporates (boar hair for instance) brings her charming 'walking forests' to life.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span>New Designers Part 2 (focusing on visual communication, industrial and spatial design), opens July 3 - 6. </span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Image credits from top: (David Marques) studiodavidmarques.com, (Annie Jones) Photography by Jo Howell on annie-jones.com, (Carys Joan Evans) carysjoanevans.wix.com. All other images taken by me with permission of artist</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-60539472838927425062013-06-30T21:43:00.002+01:002013-07-01T00:32:41.403+01:00We Found Love in New Designers<span style="font-size: large;">It's no secret that I am a big fan of New Designers. I'm admittedly a bit biased, but in my opinion it is the biggest, most eclectic, exhilarating and frankly underrated design degree show in the UK - and as it's summer, there's no shortage of them to explore right now.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The best thing about New Designers is that there really is something for everyone and no two sights are ever exactly alike. For me textiles this year was particularly memorable - we're seeing boundaries pushed with experimental, unconventional materials, cutting-edge techniques and diverse outcomes, from fashion, interiors and furnishing fabrics to sculptural and conceptual surfaces. Interestingly the line between mediums seems to be increasingly dissolved; for example, clay as a form of textile, either as repeated compositions or inserted components. Who knows? Maybe literally putting on your best china (check out Li Xiao Feng's ceramic couture <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/145030050473183348/">here</a>) isn't too impractical after all.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>The 5 New Textile Talents to Know</b></u></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wIdM5cLek8U/UdA9_EFE3dI/AAAAAAAAAeA/55VfMemdfv4/s800/Aislingduffy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wIdM5cLek8U/UdA9_EFE3dI/AAAAAAAAAeA/55VfMemdfv4/s1600/Aislingduffy.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aisling Duffy (Edinburgh College of Art)</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Aisling Duffy</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Creating crazy coloured digitally-printed fabrics, 3D-embroidered and charmingly childish ceramic accessories, Duffy works in mysterious layers that reveal the private/public aspects of our lives. Her work has that infectious, slightly psychedelic 'happy effect' much like Meadham Kirchoff (which she counts as inspiration), Ashley Williams and Sophia Webster which is trendy and highly marketable right now.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1vdO7Uh9D5E/UdA-BwaIYQI/AAAAAAAAAeY/-DytMro-E6E/s1002/emilyplumbly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1vdO7Uh9D5E/UdA-BwaIYQI/AAAAAAAAAeY/-DytMro-E6E/s640/emilyplumbly.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emily Plumbly (Norwich University of Arts)</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Emily Plumbly</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Plumbly is a mixed-media print artist who constructs intricate, fabric-like sculptures using a heated 3D textile medium that feel as intriguing to the touch as it does to the eye. A simple yet painstaking technique that creates unsuspecting, unique and experimental effects - her white spiderweb-like pieces have an ethereal allure and organic growth about them which distinguishes her work from the crowd.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ellys Beale (Loughborough University)</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Ellys Beale</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ellys Beale's fierce wolf and graphic Aztec fashion prints caught my eye in an instant. With a discerning eye for detail (her pieces would make stunning editorials) and high-profile placements with Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson and Diane Von Furstenberg under her belt, expect to find her pieces at a high-end designer boutique near you soon. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">'Amble' by Harry Owen (Camberwell College of Arts)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">image: ambledesign.com</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Amble</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Harry Owen's exquisitely North-London made 'Amble' leather collection epitomises what contemporary English craftsmanship is about - lovingly handmade, ethically sourced, one-of-a-kind pieces that only get better with age. Crated using rare English Oak Tanned leather from Devon (which feels and smells lovely in case you're wondering), leather accessories such as this gorgeous backpack are timelessly elegant and practical.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Si Chen</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Chinese MA Textile Design Innovation graduate Si Chen shows us why minimalism is the design trend of 2013- subtle prints and simple shapes can be as powerful as loud colours, frills and patterns. Her inter-disciplined practice encompasses coordinated woven print garments, jewellery and prints as shown here. Titled 'Reflection of Shadows' the pale pink and monochrome geometric prints are based on fabric swatches created by the artist.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">On the whole New Designers Part 1. was noticeably less chaotic and stripped back compared to previous years - welcome news to returning visitors (which you probably will be after your first). Gone are the unnecessary and eco-unfriendly printed maps, plus the layout was easier to navigate with more immersive multimedia displays rather than stands where you have to complete a 360 circle (If you're a student and think they're the best way to showcase the fruits of your three-year labour, they're not. They just leave visitors disorientated and make your work impossible to differentiate from the textile stands beside you, especially if you work in print). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">If you enjoyed this post, look out for the upcoming feature on New Designers' ceramicists.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">New Designers Part 2 (focusing on visual communication, industrial and spatial design), opens July 3 - 6. </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">(All images taken </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">with permission of artist by me unless specified otherwise)</span></span><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-47357529780775593882013-06-14T12:22:00.000+01:002013-06-14T23:10:30.165+01:00The Art of Hong Kong Eye, Saatchi Gallery <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Amy Cheung's 'Toy Tank' at 'Hong Kong Eye'</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Saatchi’s 'Hong Kong Eye' is an 18-course <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.200000762939453px;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amuse-bouche">amuse-bouche</a></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.200000762939453px;"> of the region's </span>brewing contemporary art scene. If there was any doubt, just look at renowned Swiss fair <a href="http://www.yatzer.com/highlights-art-basel-hong-kong-2013">Art Basel's debut in Hong Kong</a> last month – which attracted plenty of customers (including <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2013/may/25/art-hongkong-asia">Kate Moss and </a><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-style: normal; line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2013/may/25/art-hongkong-asia">Roman Abramovich</a> </i>apparently) eager for a slice of the massively lucrative market. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Sponsored by Prudential, Asia's leading corporate UK owned insurance company (the hint is in it's name), I was keen to discover how the show would, as its official introduction claims, “draw on (</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">artists) </span>specific cultural backgrounds to expose the city’s nuances” convincingly to new audiences.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Known as " The Pearl of the Orient", it’s easy to be seduced by the city's glossy patina: a teeming hyper-networked metropolis, breathtaking skyline boasting <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 19.433332443237305px;">most Rolls-Royces per capita.</span> But at what social/psychological price? This is unadulterated HK in the eyes of its own artists; where unspoken anxiety simmers headily throughout the exhibition. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amy Cheung's life-sized wooden 'Toy Tank' </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Standing in the first room is Amy Cheung's full-size wooden ‘Toy Tank’, a loaded choice of material for a symbol so potent. Visitors are invited play combat; crawling inside the vehicle, submerged in darkness. Video screens and joysticks let one navigate and unleash gunfire within a simulated Saatchi Gallery. Complete with realistic sound effects, the haunting atmosphere and unmistakable echoes of Tiananmen are inescapable. Curiously lying in its path is Adrian Wong's five-foot animatronic peanut soft toy, convulsing like dying road-kill. Novel child's play aside, these examples show how local artists are incorporating the cutting-edge technology in their work. Compared to the west, its apparent lack of established arts infrastructure and rules appears to work in its favour. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Justin Wong’s 'Difficult Life Decision' encompasses two works. The first is a giant periodic table of stickered symbols across an entire wall. Parodying a typical gruelling cycle of work, stress and digitally-prompted demands, the day starts with "Email” and ends in “Blank”, contrasting with signs of human woes like “Why Me”, “Mortgage” and “Day Off”. It’s the blueprint of the kind of living mode Londoners are frighteningly catching up with.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Justin Wong 's 'Difficult Life Decision''</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">The second part is a kiosk that asks rhetorically “How Are U Today?” Conceived, explains the helpful touch screen, to “help overworked white-collar employees contemplate life or even create a new one”, by anonymously sharing their secrets, worries and pent-up frustrations. If Wong’s works visually encapsulate HK’s insanely-paced work ethic, the definitive soundtrack belongs to Joao Vasco Paiva's installation of MTR (HK’s underground) turnstiles. A clanging-metal racket so ingrained as a Hong Konger; I barely noticed how irritatingly loud it was it until now. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">On more contentious ground, questions about China’s cultural identity are painted in Chow Chun Fai's iconic movie scenes of Chinese capitalist dreams. Everyone wants a piece of China now, but there is less concern for its own people, let alone those who speak openly about it. Issues like corruption seem to be subtly implied in subtitled actors' quotes − “China is not ruled by Chinese anyway”. Unlike the 'Korean Eye' or 'Indonesian Eye', unsurprisingly this is as controversial as it gets. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Chow Chun Fai, '<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18px; text-align: start;">Legend of the Fist: China is not Ruled by Chinese Anyway'</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">That being said, I don’t think 'Hong Kong Eye' was ever intended to expose its dark side. Intensity has always been the way of life; China didn't prosper by luck. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">The most unique aspect shown is HK’s mongrel culture, owed to its rich history as a former British colony and international trading port. An incongruous collage of old meets new, east meets west under constant urban renewal. Ho Sin Tung’s 'LOVE HOTEL: Please pretend we’ve been to a lot of places' includes a collage of cards from locally-endangered seedy motels named after glamorous holiday destinations. “Venice Inn”, “Hawaii Guest House” and the delightfully misspelt “Romb Hotel” are kitschy delights you'd never find in a tourist map. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">This is an show where somewhat frustratingly, no message or agenda is explicit. Contemplative effort, imagination and open-mindedness are needed to appreciate HK’s cultural fabric – which is complex, idiosyncratic and contradictory. However its mystic allure is a promising sign of big things yet to come.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Images from top: <span style="text-align: center;"> pbs.org,</span><span style="text-align: center;"> aesthetica.com, guardian.co.uk, ocula.com</span></span><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-71271555790399800352013-06-03T16:38:00.002+01:002014-06-12T15:43:18.518+01:00London's Top 5 Treasure Hunts<div style="text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Treasures old, treasures new, treasures worth the pilgrimage
to...Inspired by Channel 4’s <a href="http://www.channel4.com/programmes/four-rooms">‘Four Rooms’</a>* and my <a href="http://www.phoenixmag.co.uk/features/blom-blom-lighting-design/">Blom
& Blom</a> recycled lighting piece for Phoenix Magazine, trawling for
treasure has never been more fashionable. Here are 5 fantastic events where you
just might get lucky</b></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hnT_c_ho4UQ/Uay1iVu1kpI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/IydevydrORA/s1600/landy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hnT_c_ho4UQ/Uay1iVu1kpI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/IydevydrORA/s640/landy.jpg" height="428" width="640" /></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Michael Landy in his studio at the National Gallery, 2012 © The National Gallery, London</b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>1. Spot the Next Stella McCartney </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Showcasing the labours of love from hundreds of fashion students
in catwalk shows and exhibitions, Graduate Fashion Week runs until 5 June at Earl’s
Court. Focusing on industry employment, fashion journalist Colin McDowell will host
a series of talks with high-profile guests such as Imran Ahmed (Business of
Fashion) and everyone’s favourite rave kid Henry Holland. So far this year’s one-off
international show of cherry-picked talent (including the FIT (Italy), Parsons
(New York) and BUNKA (Japan)) has been particularly impressive. </b></span></span></div>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br /></b>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>GFW (until 5 June 2013), tickets from £10.50, Earl’s Court 2
Exhibition Centre, London <a href="http://www.gfw.org.uk/">http://www.gfw.org.uk/</a></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. Top-Up your Design Cred</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Graduate shows don’t get bigger than this. With over 3000
exhibitors, every 2D and 3D design discipline you can think can be found at New
Designers. Encompassing textiles, jewellery to architecture, product and graphic
design, the event takes place over two shows at Islington’s Business Design
Centre. Highly recommended for spotting and buying affordable works off future
Thomas Heatherwicks (who was a past exhibitor) and for boasting broadened design
horizons in general. </b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">New Designers, Pt. 1 (26 − 29 June), Pt 2 (3 − 6 June), tickets
from £11.50, Business Design Centre, London <a href="http://www.newdesigners.com/">http://www.newdesigners.com/</a></span></span> </b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">3. Antiques Roadshow</span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">For beautifully crafted, rare and historical finds from UK and Europe’s top
dealers, the International Art & Antiques Fair at Olympia’s iconic 19<sup>th</sup>
century exhibition venue is the place to be. A diverse range of collectibles from gadgets,
meteorites to film memorabilia will be on sale, offering priceless inspiration and
no doubt fascinating stories for creatives and curious visitors alike. A steal
at £1million, a 24cm high, 16<sup>th</sup> century gilt bronze sculpture by
Renaissance sculptor Giambologna of
Greek god Prometheus is just one of the treasures to marvel at. </span></span>
</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Olympia International Art & Antiques Fair (6 − 16
June 2013), £13-15, Olympia Exhibition Centre, London <a href="http://www.olympia-art-antiques.com/">http://www.olympia-art-antiques.com/</a></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>4. Celebrity Car-Boot Bonanza <span class="monkey-01"> </span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span class="monkey-01">Sir Peter Blake, Gavin Turk, celebrity
taxidermist Polly Morgan and more will be popping up their motors at the </span>10<sup>th</sup>
annual Vauxhall <span class="clarendon01">Art Car Boot Fair. Promising to be the
“</span><span class="monkey-01">maddest, eye-poppingly fabulous car-boot” to
date, you’re encouraged to let your hair down whilst bartering and rubbing shoulders
with Britain’s established and emerging talents. It’s not all about bargain
hunting either – be sure to buy tickets for ‘Pass the Art Parcel’ (self-explanatory - win a signed piece of art) and ‘Handbag Disco’ (dance yourself silly
inside a ‘70s tent piled with mystery goody bags, including the likes of </span>Jimmy Choo, Anya Hindmarch and Alice Temperley
arm candy). All game profits go to charities <span class="monkey-01">Just for Kids Law, Kids Company and Help for Heroes.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span class="monkey-01"></span>The Art Car Boot Fair (9 June 2013) £5, Brick Lane Yard,
London <a href="http://www.artcarbootfair.com/">http://www.artcarbootfair.com/</a></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l8SA5UrahWI/Uay21nOFTvI/AAAAAAAAAaI/WRPOhon11wM/s1600/pamhogg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l8SA5UrahWI/Uay21nOFTvI/AAAAAAAAAaI/WRPOhon11wM/s640/pamhogg.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pam Hogg at last year's Art Car Boot fair, <span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.artcarbootfair.com/">http://www.artcarbootfair.com/</a></span></span></td></tr>
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</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span class="monkey-01"><b>5. Saintly Satirical Sculptures </b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Who would’ve thought the ‘Prince of Destruction’ Michael
Landy (known for his 2001 'Break Down' and 2010 'Art Bin' project, where he
destroyed all his possessions and threw Hirst and Emin’s ‘failed’ artworks in a
giant skip respectively), would seek salvation at the National Gallery? The
fascinating, devoted and often ill-fated lives of holy saints are the inspiration
behind ‘Saints Alive’, Landy’s new exhibition of large-scale, kinetic
sculptures. Ingeniously assembled from bits of car boot/flea market-sourced junk,
components like wheels, chains juxtapose against 3D-cast fragments of painted saints
from the museum’s permanent collection - including Carlo Crivelli's 15<sup>th</sup>
century rendition of red-hat wearing <a href="http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/carlo-crivelli-saint-jerome">Saint
Jerome</a> and Sassetta's <a href="http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/sassetta-the-stigmatisation-of-saint-francis">'The
Stigmatisation of Saint Francis</a>'. Macabre, witty and more-than-slightly
piercing.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span class="monkey-01">Michael Landy: Saints Alive, (</span>23
May – 24 November 2013<span class="monkey-01">), FREE, National Gallery, London <a href="http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibitions/michael-landy-saints-alive">http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibitions/michael-landy-saints-alive</a></span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>*100% collector/hoarder’s porn, whichever way you see it</b></span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-87077553087722683072013-03-21T22:04:00.005+00:002014-07-01T11:05:28.220+01:00Lessons Learned from Mr Selfridge<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Oh Harry, Sunday night-ins just haven't been the same without you</b></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm referring to the guilty pleasure that is ITV1's recent hit series <i>Mr Selfridge</i>. Gasp if you will, but it's the first costume drama I've watched from start to finish - no, haven't seen<i> Downtown Abbey</i> or <i>Mad Men</i>. The thing about historically-inspired series, with their extended broadcast duration compared to films, can be exceptional educational tools. Especially for youngsters or people who are unfamiliar with the basics of history - which is probably most of the population.</span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1IKhhrYWtfA/UUuAlpYnXMI/AAAAAAAAAWg/UpGNdzbyhdU/s1600/mr-selfridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1IKhhrYWtfA/UUuAlpYnXMI/AAAAAAAAAWg/UpGNdzbyhdU/s1600/mr-selfridge.jpg" /></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">"One </span>day offer onl<span style="font-size: x-small;">y ladies,</span> every<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> item</span> is free!</span></span>"</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Although prone to a bit of over-embellishment (the facts more so than the frocks), a good period drama can effectively inspire untapped generations to wonder how our present is shaped by our past- a priceless effect. And with <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/twitter/9937356/Twitter-habits-TV-the-most-popular-thing-to-tweet-about.html">TV being the most talked about subject on Twitter</a>, it's officially the most entertaining way to get an education, even you might need fact-checking afterwards. While I eagerly await for season two (filming starts in April, as let slip by 'Lady May' Kath<span style="font-size: large;">e</span>rine Kelly on Twitter last Sunday), here's what I enlightened.</b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Shopping</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Harry Selfridge is credited for transforming the way the British shopped in Edwardian times (when the department store was still a new concept), by introducing retailing 'radical' ideas from the US. As unthinkable as it now sounds, until then shopping was for necessity rather than pleasure or fashion; the decadent reserve of the upper-class trophy-wives. "It is good to shop, isn't it?" asks a housewife, as if it were some vulgar, blasphemous act. However, the thought of the contemporary saying 'shop-'till-you-drop' might just have had a literal effect on some prudent Edwardians.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Several changes were revolutionary, primarily allowing the customer to conveniently access a wide variety of goods under one roof. To browse, try before you buy items off the rail, for example - versus products sold behind the counter. If you wanted a new dress, it would have taken weeks for multiple fittings and production. Think about that next time ASOS' homepage takes longer than five seconds to load. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">We have Selfridge to be thankful for sales - penny sales, early-bird discounts and the all-important mid-season sales. It's the most effective marketing, stock-shifting trick in the book, from Poundland to Harvey Nichols. Realising not everyone could afford the premium price tag, Selfridge introduced sales to attract customers across all markets. In the show staff's jaws literally drop when he decides to cut prices (unheard of for high-end retailers) in a bid to compete against new rival Woolworths, ironically a discount store opened by his old American friend. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Jeremy Piven's Harry Selfridge is an unabashed publicity-loving showman, seizing every opportunity to make headlines. This was crucial because Oxford Street was a then unfashionable shopping district. He knew how to create a spectacle the media would lap up - hosting themed nights, celebrity invitations (including King Edward VII and Sherlock Holmes author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle), and employing beautiful brand ambassadors; using sexual appeal to sell perfume (the fictional Ellen Love as the Spirit of Selfridges). He also realised impact and marketing potential of visual merchandising, Presentation is everything; a lavish store window inspires the public imagination to covet even if they can't afford the real deal. Today Selfridges, Liberty and Harrods' annual <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2241795/A-flying-carpet-giant-gingerbread-house-Londons-department-stores-sparkling-Christmas-window-displays.html#ixzz2NvIbSkGc">festive windows </a>are London attractions in their own right. </span></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KVuvR_pzqEY/UUuBNaSZa0I/AAAAAAAAAWo/VD5YUVzxsQI/s1600/mr+selfridge+and+his+women.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KVuvR_pzqEY/UUuBNaSZa0I/AAAAAAAAAWo/VD5YUVzxsQI/s1600/mr+selfridge+and+his+women.jpg" /></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Cast of Mr Selfridge, Left to right from back: Katherine Kelly (Lady 'Mae' Loxley), Jeremy Piven (Harry Selfridge), Rose Selfridge (Frances O'Connor), Agnes T<span style="font-size: x-small;">owler (Aisling Loftus)<span style="font-size: x-small;">, </span>Ellen Love (Zoe Tpper)</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Feminism</b></span><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Unlike most corset dramas, <i>Mr Selfridge</i> brings a refreshing sense of female empowerment and change of thinking when sexism was still the norm. Besides the angry suffragette demonstrations, it's the strong female characters that form the template of the modern woman - working, is financially independent and will not be hindered by their own gender. The fictional character of Miss Ravillious is the perfect example - a suffrage supporter, she arrives as newly appointed Head of Fashion in a man's world, who cycles to work, wears skirts above the ankles and certainly does not take any sexist nonsense.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The other huge shift is in women embracing their sexuality rather than being ashamed of it. In the series, women are definitely not shy of using their sexual prowess as a bargaining chip to further their career; manipulating men to get what they want - like ambitious gaiety girl Ellen Love. Not to mention Selfridges' formidable investor socialite Lady Mae, the epitome of the Edwardian cougar. When goody-two-shoes female protagonist Agnes Towler and her window dressing French lover part ways in the finale episode, the split is amicable utterly progressive even by today's standards - with her admitting they never agreed to be exclusive in the first place. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">That being said in the same episode one EMBARquote (Mr Selfridge is awash with them) undoes all this good work. "Kitty, I'm going to be a kept woman!" squeals a junior shop assistant in delight to her jealous friend. She's just announced her engagement to the chief of staff, who's been having a long affair with the head of accessories - behind his ailing wife. Fiction is always more thrilling than fact, but it does bring to light the social status and the limited choices women at the time.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I could go on forever on the list of things I've gleamed in just eight 45 minute episodes, like the memorable cameos by legends I missed in history class - Louis Blériot, the first man to fly across the Channel, Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton the and Anna Pavlova, the legendary Russian ballet dancer) Credit should be given to its acting talents, especially fresh faces Aisling Loftus (who plays Agnes), Amy Beth Hayes (the annoyingly brilliant Kitty), actresses to keep an eye on this year. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Who says television can't be good for you?</span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Season One of Mr Selfrudge is available to order <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mr-Selfridge-Series-1-DVD/dp/B008PEHZXI">here</a></b></span> </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-15270155870639371192013-03-12T01:44:00.002+00:002014-06-12T15:45:27.412+01:00Formafantasma Craftica Review, Gallery Libby Sellers, 1 - 28 February 2013<div style="text-align: left;">
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>For the love of leather, I had to visit Craftica, a<span style="font-size: large;"> curious</span> craft x design <span style="font-size: large;">project commissioned by none other than Fendi</span></b></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IXzGCXzg-qo/UT6ByEUUd_I/AAAAAAAAAV4/ovGs3RWfF3I/s1600/gls_crafticaformafantasma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IXzGCXzg-qo/UT6ByEUUd_I/AAAAAAAAAV4/ovGs3RWfF3I/s1600/gls_crafticaformafantasma.jpg" /></span></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Perch Stool and Perch Fish Hot Water Bottle</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Baguette, the Spy, the Hobo... Italian fashion giant Fendi is famous
for its coveted handbags, but what about salmon-skin furniture and cow-bladder
water bottles? No, this isn’t a radical Flintstones-inspired collection due to
hit Fendi stores anytime soon, it’s the London debut of <i>Craftica</i> at Gallery Libby Sellers, a Fendi x Formafantasma (two Italian
product designers working in the Netherlands) collaboration for Design
Miami/Basel 2012.</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Fendi’s annual Design Performance programme invites contemporary
designers to create an interactive exhibition repurposing production leather off-cuts
from that would otherwise go to waste. Previous designers have included Simon
Hassan, who displayed his bespoke boiled leather mannequin (an ancient
technique known as ‘<span class="st">cuir bouilli’</span>) at the Craft Council’s
<i>Added Value</i> exhibition during London
Design Festival.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b><i>Craftica</i>, a contemporary
design exhibition at Libby Sellers consists of crafted stools, lights, vessels
and tools. Formafantasma’s Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin have created
visually curious and tactile objects exploring our historical, diverse relationship
with leather. </b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AUxtlx4h-1M/UT6Bu5D2ohI/AAAAAAAAAVo/80ojVjsEGlI/s1600/craftica_fendi-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AUxtlx4h-1M/UT6Bu5D2ohI/AAAAAAAAAVo/80ojVjsEGlI/s1600/craftica_fendi-3.jpg" /></span></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Wolf-fish-pig Stool, Studs Stool and Salmon Stool</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Needless to say this is not one
for vegetarians. Ethically-sourced industrial animal by-products, from cow and
pig leathers to less conventional perch, wolf-fish and trout skins
(vegetal-tanned, mind you) are made into well-designed, modern items whose
domestic functions have changed little since prehistoric times. No matter what
your ethical stance is, it’s hard to refute leather’s primitive symbolism −
enabling human survival as a source of food, fuel and shelter. We still very
much depend on animals/plants above and underneath the sea, albeit perhaps in more
sophisticated ways. The installation is, the duo admit, a modern-day “holistic
view of leather as a material”.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Exhibits are placed around the
main gallery space (which makes rather interesting viewing for outside pedestrians
walking past its floor-to-ceiling window), on plinths, tables, isolated corners,
with ample space for navigation − a bit like a minimal showroom home. The walls
are white so the objects, in various neutral grey or brown hues could easily be
mistaken for the products sold by its nearby up-market Oxford Street retailers.
No detail is spared as each item is custom-made – from scallop shell spoons
with hand-stitched fish-skin and leather handles to individual engraved brass
tags that list every product component. Although there’s a definite primitive
feel in the selection of animal hides, the finished aesthetic is surprisingly
refined, leaving little trace of the human hand. After all, Formafantasma are
product designers first and foremost. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uh5acfQ780A/UT6EQgvE5II/AAAAAAAAAWQ/7KVsvfK9v5A/s1600/craftica_fendi-21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uh5acfQ780A/UT6EQgvE5II/AAAAAAAAAWQ/7KVsvfK9v5A/s1600/craftica_fendi-21.jpg" /></span></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Water containers - Cow bladders, glass, brass, cork</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>I found myself unwittingly scrutinising
every object, guessing how and what materials were used, like the seemingly
two-part, mouth-blown glass vessels (a funnel shape inserted into an organic
blob), joined by a broken, giant cattle bone. What it truly is I’ve yet to fathom,
but all the exhibits are intriguing bizarre but somehow familiar at the same
time. </b></span></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8rnEEIs9744/UT6BvmtE0BI/AAAAAAAAAV0/RuA-YUe8360/s1600/knife_detail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Knife: Vegetal tanned cow leather, cow bone</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>It would be tricky for any
visitor not to be tempted to touch the tactile, contrasting textures, a stool
combining soft pig leather and scale-patterned fish skin for example. Ever
wondered what’s it like to sit on a sea-sponge as a cushion? Or squeeze a silicon-coated,
inflated cow bladder complete with visceral frozen veins? Although visitors are
sadly not permitted to touch, I’m told that despite its delicate appearance,
fish skin is surprising supple and strong, which is why it is increasingly developed
as a sustainable fashion alternative to leather. What’s more, all exhibits bar
the cow bladder water containers (for health and safety reasons) are fully
functional. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Fashionable interior-loving types
will love the<span style="font-size: large;"> <span style="font-size: large;">graceful</span></span> bell lights, dangling from Fendi leather covered straps. Personally I was drawn to the fish-skin water bottle because the slouchy
pouch shape most closely resembled my imagined ‘caveman version’ of a water
carrier, with the added style bonus of looking a bit like a handbag. It is
almost unbelievable that such beauty completely derives from nature.</b></span></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-al1hDtwgvXc/UT6CBAy_fwI/AAAAAAAAAWE/oDpOihAOUSA/s1600/craftica_fendi-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-al1hDtwgvXc/UT6CBAy_fwI/AAAAAAAAAWE/oDpOihAOUSA/s1600/craftica_fendi-18.jpg" /></span></b></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bells-lights - leather, glass, leather-covered hooks, leather-covered electric wire</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraphstyle2" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Any remaining doubts on the
versatility of leather will dispelled by artist Francesco Zorzi’s witty
drawings (on hairless goat skin parchment) illustrating a wide range of historical
and current uses − medieval body armour, waterproof tepees to baseball mitts. In
addition to <i>Craftica</i> there are pieces
from previous Formafantasma collections displayed in other rooms − <i>Botanica, Colony</i> and <i>Moulding Tradition</i>. Although these share
a connection of nature and human heritage and delivering unexpected results through
exquisite craftsmanship, their contexts are not nearly as coherent as those in
the main series. Given the limited space available for display (typical of premium
rent-paying private galleries in Soho), I would have preferred more <i>Craftica</i> artefacts rather than showing
too many different themes at once. A quick Google search confirmed my
suspicions, large-scale highlights like the leather room divider and weighted
table omitted from its London outing. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b><i>Craftica</i> brings a new light to the age-old conundrum of humans
depleting natural resources faster than they can be replenished. In a world where
a booming population and most demand for cheap goods disregards environmental
impact, it makes a rather profound statement, perhaps even questioning one’s
stance on the issue. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>On the other
hand, you might suspect the motive behind a green, craft revival project sponsored
by a global company known for making its millions from luxury consumption, but
there’s no doubt ‘craft’ is the new marketing buzz-word embraced by all brands.
Whether companies adopt its values remains yet to be seen. Lingering traditionalists
may call it selling out, but the association of high-profile fashion house can
only be a good thing (including a personal endorsement from Silvia Fendi, the head
of accessories and craft champion), because it will bring much needed publicity
and commercial appeal to the image of contemporary craft. It’s about cool, creative
experimentation of ideas, materials and techniques – not knitted jumpers drowning in hearts and
drooling puppies. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;">Formafantasma<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">'<span style="font-size: large;">s next<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>UK<span style="font-size: large;"> <span style="font-size: large;">exhibition <span style="font-size: large;"><i>La</i><span style="font-size: large;"><i>va</i> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>wil<span style="font-size: large;">l</span> open<span style="font-size: large;"> at </span>Gallery Libby Sellers in September<span style="font-size: large;"> 2013<span style="font-size: large;">.</span></span></b></div>
<div class="paragraph_style_1" style="font-size: 10.45px; line-height: 11.4px; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">All p</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">hotography by Luisa Zanzani </span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-70506796633078118202013-03-02T16:37:00.001+00:002014-06-12T15:46:22.534+01:003 Things I Didn't Expect at LFW<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2BvD_OoLAAI/UTImpZbJIUI/AAAAAAAAAUw/IczZ6cMHQ9w/s1600/propercorn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2BvD_OoLAAI/UTImpZbJIUI/AAAAAAAAAUw/IczZ6cMHQ9w/s400/propercorn.jpg" height="380" width="400" /> </a></span></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Apologies if you're tired of LFW related stories on my blog lately. The last thing I want is readers willing to put up with my wordy entries leaving, so I promise this will be my last!</b></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Two weeks on the whole LFW experience has finally sunk in, but not in ways you'd expect. Here's some of things I never knew about fashion week that just might surprise you too.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">1. Food. Lots of it</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>"(People in fashion) eat all the time but they do not eat anything remotely normal. I think Pringles count as a protein snack." </i>observed parliamentary sketchwriter <a href="https://twitter.com/anntreneman">Ann Treneman</a> in a recent Vogue article, after a 'job-swap' at LFW. I laughed throughout the piece till my sides hurt (if you haven't read it, beg, borrow or steal the January issue). But is it really true?</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The answer is yes. LFW was freebie central for food brands eager to associate themselves with fashion. ProperCorn employed a novel marketing trick - twins serving trays of bagged popcorn (which I can confirm are delicious myself). An endless supply of self-serve Lavazza coffee (crucial for journalists working flat-out day and night) and enough bottles of rainbow-coloured Vitamin Water to turn your hair/nails a fluorescent pink (totally on trend). Surprisingly flat mineral water was the most popular refreshment of choice. </span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>That's not including goody bag treats - sponsors pulled out all the stops, and originality kudos to PR companies as well. Retro too-cutely-packaged-to-eat Jelly Belly packets at<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>Tata-Naka, eyeball 'style' cupcakes at Felder Felder, handmade in Hornsey chocs at Cristina Sabaiduc, Russian Kusmi tea at Emilio de
la Morena and Green & Blacks ice cream after the Haizhen Wang, LFW's closing show. Fashion food, like fashion itself, loves extremes. </b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">But what do the models eat? Pod healthy takeaway boxes and fridges of Vita Coco coconut water were copiously consumed at Ji Cheng backstage. So there you go. </span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. A good read and an education</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-beEXAASh9Tk/UTIqWIdCqeI/AAAAAAAAAVI/VaQ1TKhbqis/s1600/another+michelle+williams.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-beEXAASh9Tk/UTIqWIdCqeI/AAAAAAAAAVI/VaQ1TKhbqis/s400/another+michelle+williams.jpg" height="400" width="289" /> </b></a></span></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>I know it sounds presumptuous, but in all honesty I never expected actually learn much, knowledge-wise at fashion week besides being infected by the hype. From beautifully shot, artistic indie fashion mags like <a href="http://www.rollacoaster.tv/">Rollercoaster</a>, a chunky <a href="http://www.anothermag.com/">Another Magazine</a> (starring Michelle Williams), <a href="http://dashmagazine.net/378098">DASH</a> to SALT (Yes I didn't know Swarovski had a publication either) to more mainstream formats like <a href="http://online.wsj.com/public/page/magazine-index.html">WSJ Magazine</a>. </b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.drapersonline.com/">Drapers</a>, the fashion business journal I avoided at uni (who really cares about the n<span style="font-size: large;">umber<span style="font-size: large;"> of</span></span> studded <span style="font-size: large;">wedge trainers <span style="font-size: large;">Philip G<span style="font-size: large;">reen sold last season</span></span></span> anyway? Well people really do!) turned out to be a real eye opener, explaining </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"> industry </span>infrastructure in an easy-to-understand <span style="font-size: large;">way</span>. The <a href="http://lfwdaily.com/">LFW Daily</a> was a godsend. A handy<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>bite-sized summary of news, trends, backstage snaps, fashion illustration and social media stat<span style="font-size: large;">s</span> - for example, how many times "Nineties Grunge" was tweeted during House of Holland's show. Fascinating stuff. </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3. Dogfights. For real</b></span></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>If you think fashion week is just for humans, think again. I've never taken the hand-held pooches fashion fad too seriously until I witnessed it myself. There was Brix Smith<span style="font-size: large;">-</span>Start and Gladys, her raven-haired pug (of C4's 'Gok's Fashion Fix' fame). Not to mention the heated squabble between Korean designer <a href="http://christinas-anatomy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/lfws-new-design-darlings.html#more">Jackie Lee's</a> feisty golden spaniel Sunny and stylist <span class="profile-field">Michael Williamson's Chanel-clad chihuahua </span>Mr. Fashion Paws (who has his own twitter and blog by the way). What next, LPFW? </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>I wish I hadn't googled that.</b></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-22573639178270825902013-03-02T05:30:00.001+00:002014-06-12T15:47:07.002+01:00LFW's New Design Darlings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Call me fickle but here's 5 LFW designers I fell in love with...</b><b>from the far east to Fashion East to Topshop's NEWGEN</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1. J. JS Lee</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">M</span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">inimalist</span> </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">shapes<span style="font-size: large;"> ranging from </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">masculine<span style="font-size: large;">, </span></span>simple t-shirt structures<span style="font-size: large;"> to </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">the feminine<span style="font-size: large;">, such as </span>the not-so-innocent ivory skin tight roll-neck number below<span style="font-size: large;">.</span> </span>The CSM 2010 graduate and A/W13 NEWGEN winner is <span style="font-size: large;">back </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">with an </span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">easy-to-wear collection of </span></span></span>m</span>uted pastel<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;">, cream </span>and </span>black artisan-inspired knits. Of <span style="font-size: large;">course there's her signature statement collar, which<span style="font-size: large;"> this time</span></span></span></span> cosies all the way up the neck. What I like is her understated, sleek-tailored aesthetic that is shared amongst some new Asian designers. I was lucky enough to see her live presentation at Somerset House's Portico Rooms, packed with fans including critic Sarah Mower, boutique owner/TV personality Brix<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>Smith<span style="font-size: large;">-</span>Start and London-Korean blogger Shini Park from <a href="http://www.parkandcube.com/" target="_blank"><span class="st">Park & Cube.</span></a></span></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1uyNjqxpeBM/UTGPXLmFBlI/AAAAAAAAAUc/WxnwJN5GyjI/s1600/j+js+lee2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1uyNjqxpeBM/UTGPXLmFBlI/AAAAAAAAAUc/WxnwJN5GyjI/s1600/j+js+lee2.jpg" /></b></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Photos: <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/">londonfashionweek</a></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. Sister by Sibling </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Like mince pies at Christmas, knitwear is an A/W staple that never goes away (and a <span style="font-size: large;">g</span>odsend too during those arctic month). However the latest NEWGEN winning knitwear trio<span style="font-size: large;"> - </span>Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery have taken anarchic knitting to the next level - body engulfing loopy scarves and oversized pom-pom woolly caps that evoked heavily of childhood soft toys. Personally I favoured the top-to-toe, blue and red Cadbury Roses choc box ensemble and dalmatian spotted lilac striped twinsets. Beyond cute when paired with high-top sneakers. </b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos: <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/">londonfashionweek</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3. Ashley Williams (Fashion East)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Fashion East is the hottest, most unpredictable showcase of young stars before they, well, explode. This season Westminster University graduate Ashley Williams' acidic, garish neon pieces offered a refreshing antidote to the dreary greys of winter skies. How could you not feel awake in that green collared orange peacoat? Slogan type, Elvis newsprints seemed to reverberate current pop-art nostalgia (Tate Modern's new Lichtenstein exhibition for example). Topped off with stuffed animal bags, <span style="font-size: large;">her colle<span style="font-size: large;">ction's more hyper </span></span>than a juiced up Duracell bunny. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UhUnZk7gxCw/UTEYFxZqQkI/AAAAAAAAASw/y-Z_0QakjFw/s1600/slogan+ashley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UhUnZk7gxCw/UTEYFxZqQkI/AAAAAAAAASw/y-Z_0QakjFw/s1600/slogan+ashley.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos: <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/">.londonfashionweek</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>4. Sophia Webster</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The fashion scene has literally fallen head over heels for this young shoe-godfairy who debuted just one season ago.<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>How do you top a first collection worn by models as <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=2082">Barbies in lifesized boxes</a>? Well a Rainbow Winter Wonderland of course. Titled after the Bob Marley song<i> '</i>I'm a Rainbow Too' the Topshop NEWGEN recipient showcased her sole confectionery at the Tate Modern. I'm loving the eclectic clash of reworked classic prints, colour, details like frills, sheer polka dot mesh and zips located where you wouldn't expect them. Plus who hasn't dreamt of having a pet unicorn?</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos: <a href="http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/">.londonfashionweek</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>5. Ji Cheng</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The <span class="st">Chinese</span> designer may be new to London audiences, but 'Jenni Ji' Cheng is a well-established name in Asia, having shown at Shanghai Fashion Week many times. The new collection 'Koi's Whisper' is inspired by fish; more specifically the calm, beauty and elegance of carp folk myths in Asia. Glistening black, ruby and emerald <span style="font-size: large;">fabrics </span>to sheer, floaty, translucent sleeves and giant handcrafted scales on dresses - this was a testament to her avant garde tailoring skills that appeal to both East and West. Witnessing the backstage hair<span style="font-size: large;">/</span>Bo<span style="font-size: large;">dyshop </span>make<span style="font-size: large;">u</span>p preparation (cue tight<span style="font-size: large;">, glossy </span>fish pleat<span style="font-size: large;">s</span>, sequined eye 'patches' on models) and rehearsals for her Fashion Scout show, sponsored by 'Design by Shanghai', was a surreal, humbling experience I'll never forget.</span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10362704855616861389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5778649071750911343.post-86697752277888452732013-03-01T20:53:00.000+00:002013-03-03T23:51:50.284+00:00LFW A/W13 Catwalk Edit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">One of the most underrated pleasures about keeping a blog is that you don't have to be selective in terms of images and you're free to pretty much say anything. Perfect for indecisive and gobby types like me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You never forget your first LFW; anticipating what madness, 'meh'-ness or magnifucent creation will step on the catwalk and within weeks hit the shopfloor whether you like it or not. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Why should only fashion editors have all the fun? So here is my very first report on what I saw, loved and most importantly would potentially buy, whether it's the designer version or high street interpretation. After all, as fashion journalist Caryn Franklin wrote too-rightly on LFW Daily "The foundation of a successful collection is in appealing to those who will buy, as opposed to those who will photograph".</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Of course you're welcome to disagree. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1. Hot shoulder</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shoulders are having a hot moment - none more experimental than at Osman. My favourites? Just a bit of shoulder revealed on a demure draped top, David and Goliath (mismatch sized<span style="font-size: large;"></span>) sleeves and an Icarus-style shoulder piece by Topshop Unique- clearly it's not just Red Bull that gives you wings.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Osman </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qlSHmXoECCs/UTCsu4DhwOI/AAAAAAAAAN4/E0KjTE7iC2k/s1600/osman3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qlSHmXoECCs/UTCsu4DhwOI/AAAAAAAAAN4/E0KjTE7iC2k/s1600/osman3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Osman </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WkceGEP_fQs/UTCsu3lo2MI/AAAAAAAAAN8/AKzvTILw0lw/s1600/topshop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WkceGEP_fQs/UTCsu3lo2MI/AAAAAAAAAN8/AKzvTILw0lw/s1600/topshop.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topshop Unique</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. Scissorhand skirts</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Emilio de la Morena's innovative skirt slits made me want to grab my nearest shears and slash up my mum's old pencil skirts. (Thankfully that never materialised). His brilliant tailoring skills created a dynamic altercation between skin (sexy) and fabric (sophisticated). Unusual but utterly wearable. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emilio de la Morena</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emilio de la Morena</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.'70s geometric wallpapers</b> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Eye-boggling prints are back again, interpreted by designers from Holly Fulton to Matthew Williamson. Like the unmistakable appearance of camouflage and quilting, I had my doubts this flatter<span style="font-size: large;">ed </span>anything other than pasty bedroom walls. With the exception of House of Holland's punchy take, pairing huge prints with muted tertiary hues like the lime green below<span style="font-size: large;">, </span>rather than black which can be a bit too severe. A clever fitted silhouette and bust pattern detail saves it from the retro costume category. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">House of Holland</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>4. A detail less ordinary</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Off-centre, double-notch collars, asymmetrical tailored jackets and dresses, anything goes as long as it's wrong for all the right reasons.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n0AtOKCrgAA/UTCtqRYKGQI/AAAAAAAAAO0/snqSR2VaJI8/s1600/kinder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n0AtOKCrgAA/UTCtqRYKGQI/AAAAAAAAAO0/snqSR2VaJI8/s1600/kinder.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kinder Aggugini</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S3_Dxopwjsc/UTCtrEKZqCI/AAAAAAAAAO8/QgSh7w3crtU/s1600/preen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S3_Dxopwjsc/UTCtrEKZqCI/AAAAAAAAAO8/QgSh7w3crtU/s1600/preen.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preen by Thornton Bregazzi </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Osman</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With a self-admittedly limited knowledge of fashion history even I spotted references from 1930s through to the 1950s, hence settling with a happy in-between. High-waisted peg leg trousers with tucked-in, short sleeve turtle necks, mannish suits <span class="st">à la</span> Katharine Hepburn<span style="font-size: large;">. Breasts optional.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FgtLvRfzZ_0/UTCuQDb81TI/AAAAAAAAAPo/3TNc94hut6w/s1600/emilia2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FgtLvRfzZ_0/UTCuQDb81TI/AAAAAAAAAPo/3TNc94hut6w/s1600/emilia2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emilia Wickstead</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mUqapvI3fGk/UTCuQJuxTGI/AAAAAAAAAPs/6K-4gOomah4/s1600/margeret.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mUqapvI3fGk/UTCuQJuxTGI/AAAAAAAAAPs/6K-4gOomah4/s1600/margeret.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Margaret Howell</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emilia Wickstead</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmA1QpIU4o0/UTCuQ5DwkAI/AAAAAAAAAP4/m93Uq-Yxc50/s1600/vw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmA1QpIU4o0/UTCuQ5DwkAI/AAAAAAAAAP4/m93Uq-Yxc50/s1600/vw.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vivienne Westwood Red Label</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>6. Long layering</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Unkempt, baggy layers that eliminate curves, grungy contrast texture knits, Dr Zhivago-esque furry hats. James Long's non-chalant boyish street urchins are totally me.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James Long</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QqaNWeI3c5g/UTDk9YJK6FI/AAAAAAAAARY/zp520gwU0T0/s1600/james+long2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QqaNWeI3c5g/UTDk9YJK6FI/AAAAAAAAARY/zp520gwU0T0/s1600/james+long2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James Long</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James Long</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>7. One-offs to watch</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Self-indulgent slogans</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ashish</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A shiny, shiny red skirt</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uUTZ0GNorjk/UTCuAieBzSI/AAAAAAAAAPk/HzSoa2PGEWA/s1600/topshop+unique.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uUTZ0GNorjk/UTCuAieBzSI/AAAAAAAAAPk/HzSoa2PGEWA/s1600/topshop+unique.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topshop Unique</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Matching wallpaper knits </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TgxK1yVaOaY/UTCvMWnpWnI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/oS6w2mAVJew/s1600/topshop2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TgxK1yVaOaY/UTCvMWnpWnI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/oS6w2mAVJew/s1600/topshop2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topshop Unique</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Longer-than-billed baseball hats</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5F_3V5fB89o/UTCuARjLClI/AAAAAAAAAPg/xuT855d7AFc/s1600/ktz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5F_3V5fB89o/UTCuARjLClI/AAAAAAAAAPg/xuT855d7AFc/s1600/ktz.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KTZ<br />
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(All images http://www.londonfashionweek.com)</td></tr>
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